Free Computer Resources

Rename your digital photos automatically in Windows XP

2008-07-21T05:21:00.000-07:00

First, open the folder and select View > Thumbnails.

Click the last picture in the folder you want to rename, hold down the Shift key, and click the first picture; this will select them all.

Right-click the first photo, and select Rename from the drop-down menu.

Windows XP will highlight the filename for the first photo, enabling you to give it a descriptive name. After you type in the name, click the white space outside of the photo and watch as Windows applies the name with a sequential number to each picture in the folder

Hard drive is limited to less than its total capacity

2008-07-21T04:55:00.000-07:00

Your computer’s OS, motherboard BIOS, hard drive adapter card BIOS, or file system (such as FAT32) may not recognize larger partitions. Check the Web sites of the drive manufacturer, your motherboard, and Microsoft for possible solutions.

The difference between a software and hardware firewall

2008-07-21T04:51:00.000-07:00

The primary purpose of a hardware firewall is to protect a group of computers on a LAN, or local-area network. In most cases you need at least a basic understanding of how network protocols work in order to effectively use a hardware firewall. Software firewalls are primarily designed to protect individual computers that connect to the Internet, and they are usually easier to set up than hardware firewalls. There also are some very good The primary purpose of a hardware firewall is to protect a group of computers on a LAN, or local-area network. In most cases you need at least a basic understanding of how network protocols work in order to effectively use a hardware firewall. Software firewalls are primarily designed to protect individual computers that connect to the Internet, and they are usually easier to set up than hardware firewalls. There also are some very good freeware versions of software firewalls available for individual use.

What is a firewall?

2008-07-21T04:43:00.000-07:00

Firewalls are products that protect your computer from malicious intruders online. They can be either hardware or software. In order to understand how they work, you need to know a little bit about how the Internet works. Let’s compare how data is transmitted across the Internet to something we are all familiar with: mail and the U.S. Postal Service. Imagine, for a minute, that the post office only accepts postcards. On each postcard you are required to put a return address, a destination address, and the contents of your message. Let’s also imagine that these postcards can only hold a limited number of words; if you write a longer message, you will have to send several postcards. To ensure that the person receiving the message can read it, you also need to include a sequence number on the postcard. In terms of the Internet, each postcard is called a packet.

Each packet has a destination address and the address of the computer that sent it (the return address), which together are known as IP (Internet Protocol) addresses. Now, when you go into your local post office, there are usually two slots you can drop your postcards into. One slot is for local mail and the other is for nonlocal mail. These slots, when we talk about the Internet, are called ports. Each port is numbered, and there are more than 49,000 ports into and out of your computer. Some ports are associated with specific programs. For example, a Web server uses port 80 and an email server uses port 25. What does a firewall have to do with the Internet, packets, and IP addresses, you may be wondering? The firewall inspects the packets that come across the Internet into your computer. It is important to understand that the firewall sees the Internet as packets and IP addresses, not as URLs and programs. The firewall uses the information contained in the packets and the IP addresses to determine if any malicious data (such as a worm, virus, or Trojan horse) is coming into your PC through your online connection. If the firewall identifies something suspicious, it will block the packet from getting through.

Nothing happens after PC's power button is turned on

2008-07-21T04:38:00.000-07:00

Work through this checklist to narrow the list of potential power problems. Take notes as you diagnose the problem; notes will be helpful if you wind up needing technical assistance from a pro. First, examine the board for signs of overheating. You may see scorch marks that are the hallmark of a power surge or blown power components. Make sure the PSU (power supply unit) is providing power to the board. Most motherboards have LEDs that show the board is receiving power. Also, verify the CPU fan is working. If it isn’t, the PC may not start properly. If you’re still having problems, remove your system’s expansion cards, such as the modem card and sound card, especially if you just installed a new card. Leave the video card in place. On some motherboards, the components for sound and modem functions may be integrated and thus irremovable. If your computer starts up without the expansion cards, replace the cards one by one until you determine which card is causing the problem. Finally, if nothing else works, swap the processor and the memory sticks with components you know work in another machine and see if the components you swapped work, if you have spare compatible parts on hand. If they do, you know the problem resides in the processor or in the system’s memory.

Monitor has a flickering screen

2008-07-21T04:33:00.000-07:00

One of the causes of screen flicker, especially on CRT (cathode ray tube) monitors, is a screen refresh rate that is set too low. In general, it’s best to set the refresh rate to the highest possible setting. In WinXP right-click the Desktop, click Properties, choose the Settings tab, click the Advanced button, and choose the Monitor tab. If you see a Hide Modes That This Monitor Cannot Display checkbox, select it. In the Screen Refresh Rate drop-down menu, select the highest possible rate available. Click Apply, and if prompted, click Yes to keep the new settings. Click OK to close the dialog boxes and save your settings.

General Protection Faults, Page Faults, and Exception errors

2008-07-21T04:30:00.000-07:00

The messages listed above are memory errors, but the source of the error is usually unruly software. A Page Fault, for instance, can occur when software tries to write data to a portion of memory that’s reserved for another application. When the PC reads back information from that area, it doesn’t get the information it expects and generates an error message. In most cases such error messages do not mean you have a real memory problem. Rebooting the system is usually enough to resolve the problem. In some instances, however, it may be reasonable to believe that physical memory is the root of your problems. If you’ve recently installed or upgraded your memory, for instance, and you suddenly receive numerous error messages, your memory module may be suspect. Remove the new memory and return any older modules to the system and see if the problem disappears. If so, you may have memory that’s incompatible with your system or a bad memory module.

Computer shows less RAM than its actual capacity

2008-07-21T04:19:00.000-07:00

When your computer boots, it runs a variety of hardware tests and will often list the amount of RAM it detects. This screen may go by quickly on some systems or be completely masked on others. Often, you can press a key (such as ESC) to display the testing information. The key will vary among systems, so consult your system documentation for more information.

You may be able to add more RAM to your motherboard than the system can support. A motherboard with three DDR SDRAM (double-data-rate synchronous dynamic RAM) for instance, may be able to support only 1024MB of DDR SDRAM. If you install three 512MB modules, you’ll have 512MB more than the system can support. In some instances, a BIOS update may help (consult your manufacturer’s Web site), but in most cases you’ll have to keep your system’s memory limits in mind when adding memory.

If problems persist, try changing the order of your memory modules. DIMM sockets on the motherboard are labeled (DIMM0, DIMM1, etc.). You should always start installing memory in the lowest numbered socket available. In many cases the BIOS will probe the memory module in DIMM0 and address all memory according to the specifications of the module in DIMM0. If you’ve installed faster memory in DIMM0, the system may not be able to communicate with slower modules in other slots. Placing a slower module in DIMM0 may fix your problems; however, the faster modules will then, of course, run at a slower speed.

Red X next to the port under the Device Manager

2008-07-21T04:14:00.000-07:00

Open the Device Manager (by double-clicking System in the Control Panel, clicking the Hardware tab, and clicking the Device Manager button). Right-click the port with the red X next to it. Click Properties. Check the Device Usage drop-down menu at the bottom of the dialog box to ensure that Use This Device (Enable) is selected. If it is not, choose the correct drop-down menu setting and click OK. Restart your computer, and the port should be enabled.

BIOS ROM checksum error

2008-07-21T04:09:00.000-07:00

This error has caused numerous cases of heartburn to be sure. It occurs when you have corrupted your computing system’s BIOS, as with a failed flash attempt, for example. Shorting a jumper on your motherboard that clears the CMOS (complementary metal-oxide semiconductor) may or may not get you back up and running. However, depending on your particular BIOS version, you should be able to restore a clean BIOS through the following flash method. Assuming you have access to another PC, create a bootable floppy diskette. Copy the BIOS flash loader utility for your BIOS type (usually either Award or AMI) onto the disk, as well as the latest version of your motherboard’s BIOS. Most likely you can find both the latest BIOS file and the flash utility on your motherboard manufacturer’s Web site. If your machine prompts you to “Insert disk and strike any key,” then you’re almost done. The flash utility will automatically load and flash the BIOS or prompt you to enter the BIOS file name. Make sure you jot down the exact name of the BIOS file in case you need it for this process.

BIOS settings keep changing

2008-07-21T04:02:00.000-07:00

Motherboards use a small battery that provides just enough power to retain hardware configuration data, as well as the date and time. In older PCs this battery is actually soldered to the motherboard and is difficult to replace without expert assistance. Many newer motherboards use a small battery that looks much like the ones you’d find in a calculator or watch, and if you research the specifications on your motherboard, you can determine the battery model and find a replacement. You may have to open your PC to find out what kind of battery your motherboard uses.

You can open the case and look at the motherboard battery after you follow a few basic safety precautions, which you’ll want to use every time you open your computer. Disconnect the power cable and then move the computer to an area where you can work comfortably. Remove the case, and before you go poking around inside, touch a doorknob or other grounded metal to prevent static electricity discharge, which can render your PC’s sensitive parts useless.

Locating the battery is easy. Most batteries are about the size of a nickel, and you will see a plus sign (+) facing you. Different motherboards use different types of retaining clips, but these are pretty basic. Just undo the clip, remove the old battery, and pop in the new one.

Replace the case, reconnect the power cable, and start up your PC. Motherboards respond differently to the battery replacement procedure. In some cases your PC may start up normally, but there’s also a chance that your computer will indicate that settings have changed and then load the BIOS menu. You may have to set some basic information in this menu and save your changes. Then exit the menu, and your PC should start up with no problems. To set the date and time in Windows, double-click the clock on the lower right of your screen.

Newly installed soundcard is not detected

2008-07-21T03:13:00.000-07:00

If your new sound card isn’t working or doesn’t show up in the Sounds And Audio Devices dialog box, you may have a conflict with your previous audio hardware. In that case uninstall any software from your previous card. (Use the Add Or Remove Programs option in the Control Panel.) Next, select System from the Control Panel, click the Hardware tab, and open the Device Manager. Expand the Sound, Video, And Game Controllers category. Right-click each item related to your old audio adapter (look for the manufacturer’s name) and choose Disable.

Finally, if your audio still isn’t working, you may need to disable an onboard audio adapter from the BIOS setup utility. Restart the computer and hold down DELETE, F2, or F12 as it’s booting back up. Different systems have different BIOS access—check your PC’s documentation if you aren’t sure. Navigate the on-screen menu to find the option for Audio or Sound (again, each system is a little different), disable the option, save, and exit.

The computer is getting a humming or buzzing noise

2008-07-21T03:07:00.000-07:00

Often, this is the result of a poor wire connection to the sound card, although it can also result from a lot of electromagnetic interference being pumped out by a poorly shielded component within the system, especially the power supply. Unplug and replug all internal and external wire connections to the sound card, making sure that each is firmly seated. Also make sure that in your sound mixer software (in Windows double-click the speaker icon in your System Tray) you have the CD volume slider set to maximum and the Master /Play Control slider at a lower level. Be sure to mute any devices not in use. As for buzz from poor shielding, this is a harder item to fix as finding the culprit often involves swapping out suspect parts. You can try unscrewing the power supply from the case without unplugging any wires and let it run outside the chassis to increase its distance from the sound card, but this can be a more involved operation than many beginners are willing to undertake.

The computer can play system sounds but not audio CD

2008-07-21T02:39:00.000-07:00

This happens when your system is built without an analog audio cable connecting your CDROM drive to a sound card, which usually isn’t necessary in WinXP with most modern drives. However, that particular configuration does require that you use digital CD audio, which is different from a sound card’s Digital Output setting in that it controls how data travels from your CD-ROM drive. To enable digital CD audio, double-click Sounds And Audio Devices in the Windows Classic Control Panel view. Click the Hardware tab and highlight your optical drive in the device list. (If you have more than one, repeat the procedure for each.) Click the Properties button to invoke the drive’s property sheet and then click the Properties tab again that’s next to General. Under the CD Player Volume slider, which is normally turned all the way up, you’ll see a heading that reads Digital CD Playback. Make sure the corresponding box is checked. If not, click it to enable it.

No audio after installing new sound card and speakers

2008-07-21T02:36:00.000-07:00

If you don’t hear anything while playing audio, check the Windows Volume Control utility by locating the speaker icon in the notification area of your System Tray. Right-click the icon and choose Open Volume Controls. Verify that the Mute All field isn’t checked under the Main and Wave sliders and check that the volume is turned up at least halfway. If there still isn’t any sound, double-check that your speakers or headphones are plugged in to the Audio Out jack on your sound card.

How Credit Card Information Is Stolen

2008-07-21T00:22:00.000-07:00

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How Antivirus Software Works

2008-07-21T00:21:00.000-07:00

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How Worms Work

2008-07-21T00:20:00.000-07:00

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How Viruses Work

2008-07-21T00:18:00.000-07:00

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How Google Searches the Internet

2008-07-21T00:15:00.000-07:00

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How the World Wide Web Works

2008-07-21T00:11:00.000-07:00

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How TCP/IP Works

2008-07-21T00:04:00.000-07:00

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Malware terms

2008-07-20T23:35:00.000-07:00

Introduction
Viruses and worms are two well-known types of malicious software. Many threats combine elements from different types of malicious software together,These blended threats don’t fit into any one class, so the term malware, short for malicious software, is used as a catch-all term to describe a number of malicious threats, including viruses, worms, and more. Malware presents arguably the largest security threat to computer
users. It can be confusing to understand what the difference is between a virus and a Trojan, but these explanations should help:

Virus A virus is malicious code that replicates itself. New viruses are discovered
daily. Some exist simply to replicate themselves. Others can do
serious damage such as erasing files or even rendering the computer itself
inoperable.

For a virus to be successful, it has to be executed on a computer by a human. That means a file has to be opened, a program has to be run, or a computer has to be booted. In other words, programming code has to be run by a human action. That could be you, me, friends, or anyone who uses a computer. This is not to say that anyone executes a virus on purpose. Usually we're tricked into it. But a virus requires a human's help to proliferate. Remembering this fact goes a long way to preventing viruses from ever running amuck on your computer.

Worm A worm is similar to a virus.They replicate themselves like viruses,
but do not alter files like viruses do.The main difference is that worms
reside in memory and usually remain unnoticed until the rate of replication
reduces system resources to the point that it becomes noticeable.

Spyware Spyware is software. And it's not written and distributed to pursue some fancy spy agency agenda, such as finding out the color of Fidel Castro's shower curtain. It's mostly written so its authors can find out about you, where you live, what you like to do on your computer, and where you go on the Web. Why do they care? Because they can make money from that information.

Spyware is considered malware (malicious software) because it installs itself on your computer without your knowledge. Then it watches your computer habits, compromising your privacy.
Spyware is also annoying because it pushes unwanted advertising at you. Pop-up ads appear out of nowhere on your desktop. And because it is spying on you, it pushes ads at you that it thinks you'll click on.
If that's not enough, spyware can clog your system's memory and use space on your hard drive, causing performance slowdowns. It can get so cloggy that it'll make your computer unusable.

Trojan A Trojan horse got its name from the story of the Trojan horse in Greek legend. It is a malicious program disguised as a normal application. Trojan horse programs do not replicate themselves like a virus, but they can be propagated as attachments to a virus.

Rootkit A rootkit is a set of tools and utilities that a hacker can use to
maintain access once they have hacked a system.The rootkit tools allow
them to seek out usernames and passwords, launch attacks against remote
systems, and conceal their actions by hiding their files and processes and
erasing their activity from system logs and a plethora of other malicious
stealth tools.

Bot/Zombie A bot is a type of malware which allows an attacker to gain
complete control over the affected computer. Computers that are infected
with a bot are generally referred to as zombies.

Bowling

2008-07-20T22:13:00.000-07:00

Bowling
Category: Shooting
Controls:

Click using mouse

Description:

Power up your angle and let go of the button to shoot the ball and knock over pins to hit strikes and spares.

This has to be the best Online Bowling game around. Smooth workings, eye boggling graphics with an added 2 player function. You have to play it to believe it. To get the perfect bowl, aim your mouse towards the pins, whilst aligning the mouse with the marking of the floor. Push the mouse towards the pins with as much power as possible. Keep in mind that the more power you add the faster the ball will go. Also noting that this maneuver should start from behind the marking on the floor. A bit of trial and error is required but you will soon be bowling like a pro.

Please also note that to play this game some users might need to increase their screen resolution from '800x600' - sorry but there is no way round this, the game is designed like this to accommodate the bowling lane.

The Last Fight

2008-07-20T22:06:00.000-07:00

The Last Fight
Category: Shooting
Controls:

Move Left - Left Arrow Key
Move Right - Right Arrow Key
Crouch - Down Arrow Key
Shoot - Z Key(Press Arrow keys to turn your gun)
Jump - X key

Description:

You are a commando of the TLF squad and you have to infiltrate into the base of rebel Lord Runengal and destroy it, to save our galaxy!

The traitorous army under the command of lord Runengal has set up a base on the Gray Planet. They are planning to invade every star and planet of our galaxy causing massive destruction. The forces of earth are aware of this danger, so they have sent the most powerful squad, THE TLF to foil the enemy plans.You are a commando of this elite squad and your mission is to infiltrate into their base, kill all the rebel soldiers and destroy the base. In each level you have to reach the exit point to proceed to the next level. Avoid getting hit and collect health packs to keep you going. Go ahead and save our galaxy, Good luck!

Battle Tanks

2008-07-20T21:45:00.000-07:00

Battle Tanks
Category: Shooting
Controls:

Move Forward - Up Arrow Key
Move Backward - Down Arrow Key
Turn Left - Left Arrow Key
Turn Right - Right Arrow Key
Map Zoom In - X Key
Map Zoom Out - Z Key
Shoot - Space Bar

Description:

You've found a portal into the enemy territory with lots of advanced battle tanks around. Destroy all of 'em.

This is an interesting tank war game with basic 3D graphics, but has a lot of action:) You've been transported through a portal into the enemy territory guarded by numerous advanced tanks. You've to make your way through the labyrinth and destroy the required number of enemy tanks in each level to proceed to the next level.Collect the power-ups that appear after the enemy tank is destroyed. As the levels go up, you'll encounter tougher opponents. Go through the Mission guidelines given before the beginning of each level. Good Luck.

Virtual Cop

2008-07-20T21:40:00.000-07:00

Virtual Cop
Category: Shooting
Controls:

Use your mouse to take aim
Press Left mouse button to shoot
Press Space Bar to reload

Description:

Ever Played Future Cop on the PC? Well, here is your chance. Shoot anything that moves or shoot back at you.

The game is played from a first person shooting perspective view. You are a virtual cop....an earlier scrapped version of Robocop but, still accurate and deadly. One day, you were called to a Bank robbery scene and now your job is to go in and put a stop to it.

Tourist Trap

2008-07-20T21:30:00.000-07:00

Tourist Trap
Category: Puzzle
Controls:

Move Around - Arrow Keys
Drop Bomb - Ctrl Key
Switch Character - Space Bar

Description:

Help the tourists collect the gold coins and find a way out of the ancient labyrinth...

The aim of this 3D puzzle game is to help the tourists collect the gold coins scattered all over the maze like labyrinth and proceed to the next level. You must take both the tourists safely to the blue water block in order to exit the level.You have control over one tourist at a time but you can always switch between them. Pick up all the bombs that you find, because sometimes you might require to blow up the white walls to make your way. The brown chests can be simply pushed away, but be careful not to block your partner's way with the chests. A useful feature is that of the restart button allowing you to restart the level anytime you want. So hurry up as the time is running out...

Pharaoh's Treasure

2008-07-20T21:25:00.000-07:00

Pharaohs Treasure
Category: Puzzle
Controls:

Click using mouse

Description:

Match the different tiles and accumulate points to open the secret passage to the hidden treasure of Pharaoh.

You're an Egyptian explorer and you're looking for Pharaohs lost treasure. You believe, it is in a secret room in one of the pyramids. But Pharaoh has blocked the passage to the riches with a clever advanced coding method far ahead of it's time!You've to match the tiles and accumulate a score of 1,000,000 in order to open the secret passage and grab the treasure. Left Click on 4 tiles of the same pattern and form squares as big as you can.

You will erase all the tiles inside the square and collect points. You have to achieve a minimum amount of points in order to advance to the next level. Hurry up, you've got 90 seconds to complete each level. Good luck!

Master Checkers

2008-07-20T20:07:00.000-07:00

Master Checkers
Category: Puzzle
Controls:

Use the left mouse button to select the checkers and to make a move....

Description:

Play a classic game of checkers against your computer in this flash version of checkers.

Master Checkers is a board game which will let you match your skills against a computer opponent. Well, the idea of the game is to capture all of your opponents pieces, or block them so that they cannot move.

Floats

2008-07-20T19:54:00.000-07:00

Floats
Category: Puzzle
Controls:

Click using mouse

Description:

Click the moving floats in ascending order to remove them from the board and clear all the levels of this interesting flash game.

This is simple and interesting online game, where you have to left click on all the floats in an ascending order to make them disappear from the board, before the time runs out.To clear a level, dont click on the bombs, as they will reduce your 10 seconds, however you can click the sun to gain hundreds of extra points. Have Fun...

Tabla

2008-07-20T19:48:00.000-07:00

Tabla
Category: Puzzle
Controls:

Drag the blocks to the direction you want them to slide using your mouse

Description:

Are puzzle games your type of thing? Try this brain-teasing puzzle game that will surely test your skills!

Unlock the secret of the Aztecs! Move the cryptic rocks to free the golden brick. Use your mouse to move the rocks around the puzzle area to clear a path for the golden rock to exit.
Try to use the least number of moves that you can. Have fun!

Book Worm

2008-07-20T19:34:00.000-07:00

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Book Worm
Category: Puzzle
Controls:

Use mouse cursor to control the worm but remember it will move in the opposite direction

Description:

Help the little worm in reaching his books after dodging various tricky obstacles through different exciting levels.

In this addicting online game, your aim is to guide the little worm in reaching his book successfully and in least possible attempts through various levels to highest score.To clear a level, you need to avoid the walls and boundaries otherwise you will lose an attempt which eventually lost the game. The best way is to keep a considerable distance from walls to avoid any collision.

Wheelers

2008-07-20T19:07:00.000-07:00

Wheelers
Category: Racing
Controls:

Use the Arrow keys to control the bike and don't forget to fuel

Description:

Super bike racing on 4 different tracks based in Scotland, Florida, Switzerland and Mexico.

Strap that helmet on for the thunderous hum of superbike racing. This game gives you a tire-burning look at the raw power of motorcycle racing. Lean into the tight curves of these notorious courses and pinch those handle bars because at these speeds, laying a superbike down just might hurt.Watch out! dont't go off course as it will slow you down or you will lose time. Try to complete the race in the fastest time possible to score the maximum points and enter the high score list...Good luck!

Street Drifting

2008-07-20T18:56:00.000-07:00

Street Drifting
Category: Racing
Controls:

Use arrow keys to control your car

Description:

Customize your car in this awesome game and race on various exciting tracks to acheive one of top three positions.

This is an awesome car racing game which provides you variety of customizations in the car ranging from wheels to spoilers. Your aim is to finish each level with one of the top three positions to progress in the next challenging level.To clear every exciting stage of this game, you need to utilize your skills in controlling the car against different tricky paths as it slides very easily. Also don’t let the opponents to over take you otherwise it will become difficult to chase.

Crash Down

2008-07-20T18:52:00.000-07:00

Crash Down
Category: Arcade
Controls:

Use your mouse pointer to left click on 3 or more of the same colored squares to remove them from the group.

Description:

Try to eliminate rows of the same color, but if it builds up too much you will lose the game.

This is one of the addictive classic games ever made. The aim of the game is to remove the groups of same colored tiles as soon as possible before they pile up high. Clicking on the tiles while they are not in a group will result in points being taken away from your total.

Pointless

2008-07-20T18:32:00.000-07:00

Pointless
Category: Adventure
Controls:

Move Left - Left Arrow Key
Move Right - Right Arrow Key
Jump - Space Bar

Description:

Jump and run through various dangerous levels and collect the golden coins avoiding all the baddies...

This is a nice, little jump and run adventure game with no story at all!!! The aim is to run through the different challenging levels collecting gold coins. Try to reach the teleporting capsule in each level to proceed to the next level.You've to be careful and avoid all the random baddies roaming around. You're not equipped with any weapon, so dodge the enemies at all cost. Try to complete all the levels and as quickly as possible. Good luck...

Alien

2008-07-20T18:27:00.000-07:00

Alien
Category: Adventure
Controls: Press Space or Left Click to make the alien jump
Description:

They have landed or rather crashed. Help the brave little aliens climb to freedom!

This is a cool and simple flash game. The game is about an alien who have crash landed on our home planet and your job is to help him escape to freedom. The game has a cool 2D look, nice gameplay and simple graphics. Go check it out!

Replacing the Motherboard Battery

2008-07-19T21:46:00.000-07:00

Introduction and Lithium Battery
Every PC motherboard has a battery. That battery serves two purposes: to feed the configuration memory (also called CMOS) and to feed the real time clock of the computer (the one that show the date and the time).

An indication it is time to change the motherboard battery is receiving one of the following error messages when you turn on your computer: CMOS CHECKSUM FAILURE, CMOS BATTERY STATE LOW, CMOS SYSTEM OPTIONS NOT SET and CMOS TIME AND DATE NOT SET. Another indicator of a low battery is a clock that, after being set, runs well while the computer is on, but shows the wrong time when the computer is turned on the following day (it is late).

The motherboard battery can be built using three different technologies: Nickel-cadmium (NiCd), NVRAM (Non-Volatile RAM) and Lithium (Li). The Lithium battery, which is a round one (the size of a coin) and can be easily found at watchmaker's and computer parts stores, has long been the most used type. To buy one of these batteries, all you have to do is to look for a model CR2032 one.

Replacing the motherboard lithium battery demands some care. It seems to be a simple task, but it is not.

The lithium battery may use basically three socket types: socket with upper tab (Figure 1), socket with lateral tab (Figure 2), and the socket into which the battery stands instead of lying (Figure 3)

Figure 1: Socket with upper tab.

Figure 2: Socket with lateral tab.

Figure 3: Another kind of battery socket.

While the replacement of the battery in the socket with the lateral tab or of the one that stands is simple (Figures 2 and 3) – all you have to do is draw back the tab using your finger or a small screwdriver and replace it – the replacement of the batter that has an upper tab covering it (Figure 1) demands extra care. In this type of socket, if you raise the metallic tab to replace the battery, it will lose its pressure and will not make contact with the battery anymore, damaging the socket. In this case, the correct replacement of the battery in done pressing a small plastic lock at the side of the socket with the fingers or using a small screwdriver. That will allow the battery "to slide" laterally, not damaging the upper tab.

Whatever the socket used, don't forget that the replacement of the battery should be done while the computer is off.

Nickel-Cadmium Battery

f the motherboard battery is not lithium, that is, if you do not find the round flat battery the size of a coin we spoke about last week, that means your motherboard battery uses either nickel-cadmium (NiCd) battery or an NVRAM one.

The nickel-cadmium battery, unlike the lithium or the NVRAM ones, is a rechargeable battery, which means that in theory it should never need to be replaced. However, if your motherboard has a battery of that type and the computer shows the defects described last week (such as the loss of the hour and date), that means you will have to replace this battery. The problem is that replacing that type of battery requires some knowledge of electronics and some expertise, because you have to de-solder the old battery from the motherboard and solder the new one. That is why we recommend you seek the help of an electronics technician to do it, in case you don't know how to use a soldering iron.

Figure 4: Nickel-cadmium battery.

The great problem of the nickel-cadmium battery is that it is very likely to leak, and that may even corrode the motherboard. In case the battery of your motherboard has leaked, you will have to clean the affected area using an old toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. You will have to see if the battery acid did not corrode any of the motherboard tracks. If that has happened, the affected tracks will have to be remade using a wire. If you don't know how to do that, look for an electronics technician.

Figure 5: Leaked nickel-cadmium battery.

NVRAM

The NVRAM battery is a little black box that contains the clock circuit and a small lithium battery. The most common manufacturers of that circuit they are Dallas, Houston Tech, Benchmarq, Odin and ST. That circuit is usually connected to the motherboard through a socket, facilitating its replacement. To replace that circuit, you have to buy a new one first. Dallas is the only manufacturer that still sells that type of circuit, and you can buy it over the Internet, at http://www.maxim-ic.com/. And here comes the big trick. Odin only manufactured one circuit, the OEC12C887A. If your motherboard has that type of circuit, buy one called Dallas DS12887A, which is 100% compatible. The same holds true for the M48T86 circuit from ST, which is 100% compatible with the Dallas DS12887A one. As for Benchmarq, that company was bought by Texas Instruments and at the site from Dallas there is a complete table of the compatibility, at http://www.maxim-ic.com/alternatives.cfm/show/TEXAS_INSTRUMENTS. In that table you will find which Dallas circuit corresponds to the Benchmarq one. For instance, if your motherboard uses the Benchmarq BQ3287 circuit, you can replace it directly with the Dallas DS12887 one, which is 100% compatible. The Houston Tech circuits use the same nomenclature as the Dallas ones. After buying the chip, all you have to do is to replace it (while your computer is off). You should carefully remove the old circuit using a small screwdriver or integrated circuit extractor. When installing the new circuit, pay attention to the marking of pin 1, that is, the side of the circuit that has a small ball or a chamfered on it it should coincide with the side of the socket that has a similar mark.

Figure 6: NVRAM.

The NVRAM may be directly soldered to the motherboard instead of being held on to it through a socket. In this case, you will have of de-solder the old circuit and solder the new one. That task is only recommended for people who really have experience de-soldering and soldering electronic components.

There is a trick to "recondition" an NVRAM. The NVRAM is a circuit that contains a memory circuit, a crystal, and a lithium battery in a single chip. Depending on the brand of the circuit on your motherboard, you can easily remove the upper part of the NVRAM – which is a rectangular plastic cover – using a small screwdriver. After removing that cover you will find the crystal and the lithium battery. Now, since the NVRAM also uses a lithium battery, all you have to do is to de-solder the old battery and replace it with a new one, paying attention to follow the correct polarity. If you are not skilled with the soldering iron, ask for the help of a friend who is or of an electronics technician.

If the cover can not be easily removed, you will have to force it, in other words, to break it using a blade and a small screwdriver. You will have to be careful not to break the crystal. Since the crystal is located near pin 1, at the end of the NVRAM, and the lithium battery is located in the middle of the circuit, we suggest that, in this operation, you only force the area in the middle of the circuit.

Another possibility is soldering the new battery outside the circuit. The positive pole of the new battery (which may be a 3 V CR2032 lithium battery) should be connected to pin 20 of the NVRAM, while the negative pole of the new battery should be connected to pin 16. See the figure to know how to identify such pins. Pin 1 is the pin where there is a small white ball (or a bas-relief) marked on the upper part of the NVRAM.

Figure 7: How to "save" the NVRAM circuit.

After reconditioning the NVRAM, you will have to make sure the new battery and wires you may have used are isolated, without any contact with other pins or components of the NVRAM or the motherboard.

How to Install Hard Drives over 8 GB in Older PCs

2008-07-19T21:37:00.000-07:00

In older PCs BIOS doesn't support hard drives over 8 GB even though the hard drive is correctly recognized on setup. So, it will be correctly recognized on setup but when you format it, it will only format as 8 GB. This problem is caused by a BIOS limitation, similar to the famous 504 MB limit that existed many years ago.

There are two solutions for this problem:

1. BIOS upgrade: This is the best option. If your motherboard uses a Flash ROM chip you can reprogram it in order to solve this limitation. You can learn how to do this reading our tutorial How to Do a BIOS Upgrade.

2. If the ROM memory from your motherboard doesn't allow an upgrade the solution is to use a special formatting software (a.k.a. Disk Manager) which is distributed by the hard drive manufacturer. This program formats the hard drive and installs a driver on the hard disk's MBR and boot sector which is loaded every time you turn your PC on before loading the operating system, allowing to have access to the full capacity of the hard drive. Below we linked these programs for the most common hard drive manufacturers.

Formatting Programs (Disk Manager)

Disk Manager - Fujitsu.
Disk Manager - Maxtor.
Disk Manager - Quantum. Note: even though this software is from Maxtor, it works on Quantum hard drives, since Maxtor has bought Quantum.
Disk Manager - Samsung.
Disk Manager - Seagate.
Disk Manager - Western Digital.

Everything You Need to Know About Dual Channel

2008-07-19T21:18:00.000-07:00

Introduction

The system RAM memory prevents the PC of achieving its maximum capable performance. This happens because the processor (CPU) is faster than RAM memory and usually it has to wait for the RAM memory to deliver data. During this wait time the CPU is idle, doing nothing (that's not absolutely true, but it fits in our explanation). In a perfect computer, the RAM memory would be as fast as the CPU. Dual channel is a technique used to double the communication speed between the memory controller and the RAM memory, and thus improving the system performance. In this tutorial we will explain everything you need to know about dual channel technology: how it works, how to set it up, how to calculate transfer speeds and more.

Before explaining what dual channel is, let’s first explain how RAM memory is traditionally connected to the system.

Memory is controlled by a circuit called memory controller. This circuit is physically inside the chipset (north bridge chip – or MCH, Memory Controller Hub, as Intel calls this chip –, to be more specific), in the case of Intel CPUs, and inside the CPU, in the case of current AMD CPUs (i.e. CPUs based on AMD64 architecture; older AMD CPUs like Athlon XP use the same scheme as Intel CPUs).

RAM is connected to the memory controller thru a series of wires. These wires are divided into three groups: data, address and control. The wires from the data bus will carry data that is being read (i.e. transferred from the memory to the memory controller and then to the CPU) or written (i.e. transferred from the memory controller to the memory, coming from the CPU). The wires from the address bus tells the memory modules where exactly (i.e. which address) that data must be retrieved from or stored. And the control wires send commands to the memory modules, telling them what kind of operation is being done – for example, if it is a write (store) or a read operation. Another important wire present on the control bus is the memory clock signal. We summarize this on Figure 1. Our drawing is based on an Intel system. On AMD CPUs the memory controller is inside the CPU and thus the memory bus comes directly from the CPU with no “middleman”.

Figure 1: How memory is accessed.

The memory speeds (clock rates), maximum capacity and types (DDR, DDR2, DDR3, etc) a system can accept is defined by the chipset (Intel) or by the CPU (AMD). For example, accepting DDR3 memories on an Intel system will depend on the chipset (and on the motherboard providing the right kind of memory sockets) and not on the CPU. AMD systems currently can’t work with DDR3 memories because the embedded memory controller can’t recognize this technology.

As for the clock rates, if the memory controller can only generate a clock rate of, let’s say, 667 MHz (333 MHz x 2), your DDR2-800 memories will work at 667 MHz on this particular system. This is a physical limitation of your memory controller. Usually you will see this kind of limitation only on Intel systems, as AMD CPUs can recognize DDR2 memories up to 800 MHz (socket AM2 CPUs) or up to 1,066 MHz (socket AM2+ Phenom CPUs).

Another interesting thing refers to the maximum amount of memory the system can recognize. Most Intel CPUs have a 32- or a 36-bit memory address bus (here we are referring to the address bus available on the CPU external bus, i.e. on the CPU front side bus). This allows the CPU to recognize up to 4 GB (2^32) or 64 GB (2^36) of memory, respectively. But since it is the memory controller who will access the memory (not the CPU directly), this middleman may limit the maximum amount of RAM your system can have. For example, Intel P35 and G33 chipsets can only access up to 8 GB of RAM (2 GB per memory socket). Plus the motherboard manufacturer may not make available enough memory sockets on the motherboard in order to achieve the maximum amount of RAM that the CPU can theoretically access. For example, if a manufacturer produces a motherboard based on Intel G33 chipset with only two memory sockets, the maximum amount of memory you can have is 4 GB (2 GB per socket), even thought the chipset is capable of accessing up to 8 GB.

Since all kinds of memory modules available today are 64-bit devices, the memory data bus is 64-bit wide. What dual channel technology does is expand the memory data bus from 64 to 128 bits.

What is Dual Channel?

Dual channel is the ability that some memory controllers have to expand the width of their data busses from 64 to 128 bits. Considering that everything remains the same (clock speeds, for example), the memory maximum theoretical transfer rate is doubled by the use of this technique.

The maximum theoretical transfer rate (MTTR) is calculated using this formula:

MTTR = real clock rate x data transferred per cycle x bits transferred per cycle / 8

MTTR = DDR clock rate x bits transferred per cycle / 8

Memories based on DDR (Double Data Rate) technology such as DDR-SDRAM, DDR2-SDRAM and DDR3-SDRAM transfer two data per clock cycle. Because of that they achieve double the transfer rate compared to traditional memories (such as the original SDRAM) running at the same clock rate. Because of that DDR-based memories are usually labeled with double their real clock rate. For example, DDR2-800 memories in reality work at 400 MHz transferring two data per clock cycle, and thus are labeled as being an “800 MHz” device, even though the clock signal doesn’t really work at 800 MHz.

So in the above formulas you to multiply the real clock rate by two, i.e. use the DDR clock rate.

So a DDR2-800 memory module – which is a 64-bit device, as mentioned before – has a maximum theoretical transfer rate of 6,400 MB/s (800 MHz x 64 / 8). This is why memory modules using DDR2-800 memory chips are also called PC2-6400. This number refers to the memory’s maximum theoretical transfer rate in MB/s (megabytes per second).

If we enable dual channel technique with DDR2-800 modules, the memory subsystem maximum theoretical transfer rate is doubled, jumping from 6,400 MB/s to 12,800 MB/s (800 MHz x 128 / 8), as we will be transferring double the amount of data (128 bits vs. 64 bits) each clock cycle.

It is very important to notice that these transfer rates are “theoretical”. When we calculate them we are assuming that a data transfer will occur at each clock cycle (i.e. that on a DDR2-800 memory 800,000,000 transfers per second will occur), which in fact never happens, because no CPU or memory controller is transferring data 100% of the time. That is why when you measure the actual memory transfer from your system using a program such as Sandra you always get a value lower than the maximum theoretical transfer rate.

It is also important to notice that the performance increase is achieved only on the memory subsystem; a 100% theoretical performance increase does not translate into a 100% performance increase in your whole computer. Only a small percentage of this memory performance increase will be reflected on the overall system performance.

At this moment we want to explain in details what physically happens with the memory data bus, because we’ve seen a lot of wrong information being posted on our forums about how dual channel technique works.

Let’s first assume a system that doesn’t support dual channel feature (i.e. a single channel system).

When we say that the memory data bus is 64-bit wide, this means that there 64 wires (yes, physical wires on the motherboard) connecting the memory controller and the memory sockets. These wires are labeled D0 thru D63. The memory data bus is shared among all memory sockets. The address and control busses will activate the proper memory socket depending on the address where data must be stored or read from. We illustrate this on Figure 2.

Figure 2: How single channel works.

On systems supporting dual-channel technology, the memory data bus is expanded to 128 bits. This means that on such systems there are 128 wires connecting the memory controller and the memory sockets. These wires are labeled D0 thru D127. Since each memory module can only accept 64 bits per cycle, two memory modules are used to fill the 128-bit data bus. So for dual-channel technology to work you need to have an even number of memory modules on your system (assuming that your AMD CPU or Intel chipset support this technology, of course). If you install just one module this technique won’t work because memory will still be accessed 64 bits per cycle. In other words, dual channel works by accessing two memory modules in parallel, i.e. at the same time.

Figure 3: How dual channel works.

Because the two modules are accessed at the same time, they must be identical (same capacity, same timings and same clock rate).

Personal Search Engine

2008-07-19T21:00:00.000-07:00

Make your own personal Search Engine with your name like Google Red style logo. Create branded logo Search engines like Google, Yahoo, Coca Cola, Lords of the Rings, Sherk, Star War, Harry Potter, Micky mouse etc. Colorful Google Logo Maker. You can make a any style logo. Its 100% Free Personal Search Engine

Click here

Password Technique

2008-07-19T20:58:00.000-07:00

Use this simple password technique to remember all of your passwords!

Tired of keeping track of every password you use?
Or do you use the same password for all of your sites?

Don't expose yourself to risk! Use this simple mental technique to create unique passwords for every website!

It seems everywhere you go on the Internet you are asked to create a new password, one for your email, one for banking, and so on. Keeping track of all those passwords can be difficult. Many of you just use one password for everything. Instead, try this simple mental technique that will create a unique password for every website, and best of all, you will remember them with no problem!

Start with a base word

Start with a 6 letter base word. For example: zebras, skycap, or any other word or combination of letters. We will choose zebras for our example. Our password so far: zebras

Select a letter

Now choose the same letter from the website name to use in your password. In our example we will select the second letter from the website. So for the following websites our password will be:

Yahoo: azebras
MSN: szebras
Hotmail: ozebras

Use the same number at the end

Many websites require you have at least two numbers in your password. Pick two numbers you will always use. In our example we will use 32. Our password will then be:

Yahoo: azebras32
MSN: szebras32
Hotmail: ozebras32

As you can see a hacker would need to know two of your passwords to discover your system. Highly unlikely since you will be using your head everytime to store your password!

Some Password Do's and Don'ts

Don't write your passwords anywhere. The purpose of this simple technique is to make it easy for you and virtually impossible for anyone else to know your passwords.
Don't use the same password for everything.
Do use numbers in your scheme. Many websites require it, so its best to get use to it now rather then later.

Determine what startup programs are worth keeping around

2008-07-19T20:53:00.000-07:00

Have you noticed your computer slowing down over time?

Startup Programs Galore

It seems every new device or program you install on the computer these days has the need to be on your startup list. The net effect is that your computer is taking longer to boot, or your CPU works harder to keep up with you.

There are TWO places to look for startup programs

The first place you should look is in the startup group on the Start menu. Look at the programs located in this folder and determine if you really need your system to run them every time. (Note: Removing them from the startup folder will not uninstall them. If you no longer want the program on your computer, go to control panel and click on the add/remove programs icon.) To remove a program from the startup folder, click on the Start menu and then click on All Programs. Click on the startup folder to see a list of startup programs. Right click on the shortcut you wish to remove and choose Delete. This will remove the icon, but not the program, from the startup folder. If you prefer to save the icon, in case you might want to add it back at a later time; click and drag the icon to the desktop. The next time you need it, just drag it back to the startup folder.

Did you know that computer registry harbors hidden startup programs?

Another place on your computer where startup programs may lurk is in your computer's registry, but looking around and making changes to your registry is not advised unless your a computer Pro. Luckily, Microsoft has already provided a tool in Windows to do this for you. It's called the "System Configuration Utility". You can access it by clicking on the Start menu, next click on Run and type MSCONFIG in the dialog box. Click on "Selective Startup" and then click on the Startup tab at the top of the program. Uncheck those program you recognize and no longer need. You may not recognize all of the programs on the list since some of them may have obscure names. If you come across a program that is not familiar, first find out if it is necessary and then unchecked the program on the list.

How to tell if a program is not needed?

There are many websites devoted to helping users with this predicament. Use one of these sites to help determine what a program does and if it's really needed:

File Research Center - Best of all the sites reviewed. Offers little more then a sentence to describe what a program does.

SysInfo.org - Second best in our review, but could use a much better interface. Hard to search.

Greatis Application Database - Nice search interface, but had trouble finding many common programs.

If you don't find the program using one website, try the others on the list. Cleaning up your startup programs will go a long way in keeping your computer running at its' peak performance!

Installing new software

2008-07-19T20:50:00.000-07:00

Take this simple precaution in case the installation goes bad.
As a lead programmer at PC Experts I get to tinker with the latest software, not necessarily a blessing when a program installation trashes my computer. I use Norton Ghost to keep a backup of my drive ready in case the worst happens, but restoring my harddrive this way can take several hours, thus leaving me with no computer when I might need it the most.

System Restore To The Rescue (XP Only)
Windows comes with a great feature called System Restore. Many installation packages will use it to "backup" the registry and other key components before they install themselves, but not all do. It allows you to "roll back" the changes to Windows prior to the installation.

Here's How:
I don't take any changes and I do my own System Restore Points before installing any software on my computer. To do so, just click on Start, and then "Help and Support". The Help and Support Center will come up. Under "Pick a task" click on "Undo changes to youir computer with System Restore". Another window will pop up, Welcome to System Restore. Click on "Create a Restore Point" and then click the "Next" button. Enter a name, usually I will type in the name of the program I'm installing followed by "before installation", and click on the "Create" button.

The system will proceed to backup your settings, quickly mind you, and come back with a confirmation message that everything was completed sucessfully. If you ever need to restore your system, just follow the same procedure but select "Restore my computer to an earlier time" instead.

What Happens if Windows does not boot?
In many cases you still can restore from a stored point using the original setup CD or a DOS prompt. For more information please click here.

Get free online storage!

2008-07-19T20:43:00.000-07:00

Use Yahoo to store up to 30 megabytes of free file storage.
Many of you may already use a portable drive to store files or to transfer to another computer. Another way you can transfer or hold files is through Yahoo Briefcase. The service is free to registered users, (registration is also free), and it offers up to 30 megabytes of storage.

Use it when you don't have your thumb drive handy, or just another place to store files. We don't recommend it as a backup solution, and it does not act as another drive on your computer, but it a great short term solution.

To access Yahoo briefcase, please go to http://briefcase.yahoo.com

Move XP Hard drive to a different motherboard

2008-07-19T20:39:00.000-07:00

Go to device manager and expand IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers. Right click the first controller (not the primary or secondary IDE channel). Choose update driver. Choose the option to install from a list or specific location. Click next. Highlight the standard dual channel PCI IDE controller, click next. The standard IDE controller will install. Now reboot and log in. the standard controller is completely installed. Shutdown the pc, remove the hard drive, and boot with the new motherboard.

A Guide to Computer Hardware

2008-07-19T08:48:00.000-07:00

The Motherboard
Aka Mainboard, Systemboard, Mobo

The motherboard is the very fundamental core of your system. Every single piece of hardware in your computer connects to it.

If you're house shopping, the motherboard would be the property upon which the house is built - it's the foundation of your investment, and it will influence many of the house-building decisions that will follow.

The motherboard will dictate a lot of things such as which type of processors your computer will use or how many different expansion cards it will hold. It is responsible for moving information between your other pieces of hardware, and the speed at which it can do this will vary. Generally a more expensive model will move information around quicker, and have more built-in features.

Processor

The processor is the part of the computer that does the math. Every single thing your computer does involves your processor running many (most likely millions) of calculations, and telling the rest of your system how to behave.

Certain applications are especially calculation heavy. Playing games, editing videos, pictures or music, and any sort of 3D design or modeling are all very demanding on your CPU, so it's important that you choose your processor wisely. In fact, when I help people configure a system, the first step is determining which CPU will work best for their applications.

There are many different types of processors being manufactured by different companies, but for the purpose of this article, I'll stick to the two companies that comprise 99% of the market share: AMD and Intel. "Which is better?" is not an easy question to answer. People have written volumes extolling the virtues of one processor, while condemning the flaws of others, and these battle lines are constantly being redrawn as contemporary hardware evolves.

Processors are reaching speed limits where they can't get any faster while remaining stable and not overheating. The newest trend to combat this challenge is by moving to Dual Core

Dual Core processors are being embraced by more and more developers, and their costs have dropped to make them competitive with the rest of the market. Even programs that aren't specifically written for dual core processors can still have a performance increase when your operating system can use one core to handle a good portion of the background tasks. Multi-tasking is the true strength of Dual Core processors. With a new version of Windows around the corner that promises more system overhead, I find that I have a very hard time recommending single-core processors these days.
processors. Think of this as 2 processors being combined into a single physical chip. Your system can split up the load between the two of them, giving you a performance increase without pushing processors beyond the stable heat limits.

RAM

Memory is like a blank piece of paper that your computer keeps notes in. Memory is accessed faster than your hard drive, so when your computer is running programs it copies information to your Memory, where it can quickly edit and access it. Memory only temporarily stores this information, and is constantly loading and unloading new information. The memory cannot permanently store information, which is why you lose unsaved information if your computer crashes or you lose power.

Memory has 2 important features to keep in mind: Size and Speed.

The size of memory you have, is usually expressed in Megabytes or Gigabytes, depending on how much you have. (1024 megabytes is 1 gigabyte). A few years back, 64 megabytes was a tremendous amount of memory for your computer to have. Today, I would sell a system with no less than 512 megabytes, and usually recommend 1 or 2 gigabytes of memory, depending on the customers' performance demands.

Hard Drive

This is where your computer stores everything. The information written to the Hard Drive stays there, even when the computer is powered off. It does this by having magnetic platters upon which information is stored. These platters spin while a sensor reads the data, much like a record player reads a vinyl album.

Hard Drive storage boils down to 2 major things: Capacity and Speed.

Capacity is how much storage space you have. Video, Music and extremely large picture files are the biggest files that most people use. This storage space is measured in Gigabytes, and drives sizes are fast approaching the Terabyte mark (that's 1000 Gigabytes!)

Speed is how quickly the hard drive accesses your stored files. On a fast hard drive, Windows boots faster and you can play, move, load, edit and delete files quicky as well. Hard drives speed is measured by the number of "revolutions per minute", or RPM. Again, to think of your hard drive like a record: The faster you turn it, the more music you can play in the same period of time!

There are different ways that hard drives connect to your motherboard. You might have heard the terms: IDE, SATA, or SCSI. I've found that SATA hard drives are ideal for 99% of our customers, and give the best performance for their price.

Video Card

Put simply, a video card is in charge of outputting a signal to your monitor. Depending on your task, this can be trivial, or very demanding.

This can be a very tricky step to visualize. When I talk to people about their video card needs, often they just know that they want a very clear picture and good graphics. At this point, it's important to try and separate what is handled by the monitor, what is handled by the video card, and what the relationship is between the two.

The video card is responsible for taking the information from your computer, and preparing it to be shown on your screen. This means it does all the necessary calculations for drawing images, sets the appropriate transparencies and colors, and a whole slew of other things. Once it has done all of the math, it gets ready to send the image to your screen by converting it to the signal that your monitor is expecting.

Sound Card

If you read the Video Card section, then this Sound Card section might give you a sense of déjà Vu. The sound card does exactly the same sort of stuff.

The sound card prepares an audio source to be sent to your speakers, headphone, or other audio device. It takes the audio processing load off of your CPU, and does all the hard work. It has special features built in which make it much more efficient at this sort of work.

For a majority of users, the most basic sound card is sufficient for everything they do. High quality motherboards even include a basic on-board audio card, giving you all the basic features of a sound card without needing to purchase one.

Higher end sound cards will include support for surround sound, better audio quality, faster compression when recording, and a wider array of inputs and outputs. High end sound cards are typically associated with sound recording, surround sound home theater, or video gaming.

Case

The computer case is pretty straightforward in concept. It's the chassis that everything else is assembled inside and offers a few minor conveniences. For example, many computer cases these days have easily accessible USB ports on the front of the computer, and sometimes even a headphone jack so that you can access these while sitting at your computer rather than having to climb behind it.

There is a greater selection of PC cases than any other component, and there's a wide variety of aesthetics, features, and prices. If you're having a system built for you by a system builder, odds are they've narrowed down your selection to a very few choices. This allows them to design effective shipping solutions, guarantee compatibility, and probably has aesthetics associated with company image.

Cases are an often neglected piece of hardware when it comes to carefully selecting your system components. Too often people choose form-over-function, giving them some flashy case that does a very inadequate job of keeping the system cool and quiet.

Disk Drives

There are a few common types of disk drives, and below I highlight the features and considerations of the most common types.

Floppy Drives - Floppy drives are the oldest, and most familiar form of media that our computers use. Just pop in the disk, copy the data, and eject it. They've become more scarce recently, as they have a very small storage capacity, and are being eschewed in favor of larger optical discs.

CD-ROM - This drive plays CD's, both audio and data. The speed that it operates is usually expressed in terms of the speed an Audio Disc plays at (which happens to be 1.2 megabits per second). Today, CD-Roms read at up to 52x, which is 52 times faster than an audio disc plays.

CD-RW - This drive can play CD's, and even make them! With a blank CD and the proper software, you can make your own data files or audio CDs. These are usually described by 2 numbers: Read Speed and Write Speed.

DVD-ROM - As CD-ROM, but it can also play DVDs. Exceptionally large programs are starting to be distributed on DVD's rather than CD's, because DVD's have much higher capacity. Since this drive can read both DVDs and CDs, and is only fractionally more expensive than the CD-ROM, I universally recommend the purchase of a DVD drive over a CD drive.

DVD/CD-RW or "Combo Drive" - This drive combines a CD-RW and a DVD-ROM. It can read CDs, DVDs, and Write CDs.

DVD-RW - This drive does it all. It reads CDs and DVDs, and it writes both CDs and DVDs. DVD has a few formats (referred to by obscure terms like "+", "-", and "dual layer"). Modern DVD-RW drives should support all these formats.

Cooling Systems

The number one killer of computer hardware is heat. If your system is constantly hotter than it should be, it's going to wear out your computer, and it will eventually fail. So let's address the ways to keep your system cool.

Any case you buy should have a number of fans in it. Some only have one at the rear, while others will also have an intake fan in the front. This will provide a constant stream of cool air from the front of the case, over the hot components, and out the rear. Higher quality cases come with 90mm or 120mm fans, while mainstream cases typically come with 80mm fans.

One of the hottest places in your computer is the CPU, and it's cooled with a heat sink and fan. The Heat Sink is a metal attachment to the processor which helps disperse the heat, usually using copper or another highly conductive metal. This heat sink is cooled with a fan, which keeps cool air moving past it. This makes the CPU heatsink and fan a very important selection when building a system. You want a fan that will keep your processor nice and cool, but you don't want it to sound like a tiny hurricane inside your computer either.

There are a lot of after-market cooling solutions for other parts of the system. They make RAM coolers, hard drive coolers, blower fans, and every other sort of noisy fan-based gadgetry. In general, if you have selected a smart case with good air movement, you won't need these extra fans.

The Dummy's Guide to Power Supplies

2008-07-19T08:32:00.000-07:00

Power supplies -- they're probably the most overlooked components in any PC, until they break. A failed power supply is one of the easiest problems to diagnose, but a failing or inadequate one is much more subtle and difficult to catch. This article is designed to give you a better understanding of what power supplies do, how they work and how to select the right one for different types of computer set-ups.

What does a power supply actually do?

Everything in a computer needs power. If it doesn't get the power it needs, all kinds of interesting problems crop up. For example, hard drives can crash or go corrupt. RAM can also lose data, resulting in system crashes. Motherboards might reboot randomly and video cards start giving corrupt output, or even stop working all together - all this because one little box in the corner of the computer isn't working correctly.

The job of a power supply unit (PSU) is fairly simple: Take the 110 volt AC current from the wall and turn it into integrated circuit friendly DC, and at a fraction of the original voltage. A power supply, however, is much more than just a single transformer. Modern PSUs have at least five separate voltage outputs, and usually more. Each different power output is called a "rail": the -12 volt rail, the -5 volt rail, the 3.3 volt rail, the 5 volt rail, and one or more 12 volt rails. Each rail is an independent power source in its own right, monitoring and adjusting the voltage on its outputs.

The -12 and -5 volt rails are small, really only used by the motherboard in a few applications. The 3.3 volt rail is also used by the motherboard, along with SATA hard drives. The 5-volt rail is used by most of the drives, along with the motherboard and other accessories.

The most important rail is, by far, the 12 volt rail. It has the lion's share of the wattage, usually accounting for 75% or more of the power output of the PSU. It's used by everything, from the processor (which has a dedicated 12 volt input on the motherboard) to video cards (many of which also have dedicated 12 volt inputs) to the case fans.

Most PSUs have multiple 12 volt rails, to share the work load that would otherwise have to be handled by a single rail. The entry level Seasonic 380 watt has two, while on the other end of the spectrum is the giant Enermax Galaxy 1000 watt, which has no less than four.

Picking the right PSU

So, how much power is enough? How much is too much? Is there even such a thing as too much? To answer these questions, you need to consider the power consumption of the two most power hungry components in your computer - the video card(s) and processor(s). Hard drives draw a fairly consistent 10 watts, CD drives about double that. Compared to the variations seen in processor (CPU) power usage (35 to over 150 watts) and video cards (15 to 215 watts), drives and fans are consistent enough that they only really make a difference in extreme cases.

While it is entirely possible to go through a system part-by-part and calculate the exact expected power usage, that process is long and boring. Instead, here are the most powerful systems I would trust with each PSU:

380 watt	Low-power consumption CPU: Intels up through the 6600, AMD through the X2 4200+ or so. Low end video cards without SLI One or two hard drives One or two CD drives

550 watt	Mid-range consumption CPU: Any dual-core Intel chip, AMD through the X2 5200+ or so. Single high-end video card (to the 8800 GTS 640, the 8800 GTX would probably be a bit of a stretch) or mid-range SLI (through two 7950 GTs) Two or three hard drives

650 watt	Any single CPU system as well as low-powered dual CPU systems. Anything through the Intel Xeon 5130s or the AMD Opteron 2214s should be fine. Any single video card or mid to high-end SLI set. The 650 watt PSU doesn't quite have enough power to drive SLI 8800 GTXs, but anything other than that should be fine. Two to four hard drives, or more with less powerful CPUs or video card.

700 watt	Any single or dual-CPU system, including dual quad-core Xeons. Any video card or cards, the 700 watt will power two 8800 GTX cards in SLI just fine. However many hard drives you feel like.

1000 watt	Advanced liquid cooled systems with high performance CPUs and SLI video cards. Run light industrial machinery. Jump start your car with the 12V rail.

Some other considerations
While, obviously, power output is the main factor in deciding which PSU to buy, there are a few other things to consider as well. First and foremost in my mind is quality. If a PSU doesn't supply clean, smooth power, it can seriously shorten the life of components in the system. Also, low-quality PSUs tend to be more prone to failure, which could mean anything from just needing to replace the PSU (which can be a pain) to melting parts of your computer. High-quality PSUs are also much more likely to weather power surges and spikes, although there is no replacement for a good surge protector. Here at Puget Custom Computers, we have seen power blinks that have turned off systems using cheap, generic PSUs, while those with more expensive PSUs kept right on going. We keep detailed records of every failure we come across, and use it to continually improve our product line.

The next consideration is far more noticable in day-to-day operation. Noise. Some power supplies are designed to be dead silent, some are rather loud and others sound more like little jet engines. While we have tried to keep our options as quiet as possible, some of our offerings, such as the Enermax Galaxy, are not very quiet. It's not loud, per se, but it makes a noticable amount of noise compared to the very quiet Seasonics.

The last consideration is purely cosmetic. Some PSUs have modular cables: If you don't need four cables with SATA power plugs, they can be unplugged and left out of the computer. This makes my job of hiding all the extra cables during a build quite easy (we still send the cables to the customer just in case they want to have future upgrades). Especially in systems with windows and lights, a modular PSU can make the interior of a PC look much cleaner. However, there are who insist that modular PSUs are a bad idea, because the connectors offer slightly more resistance, and provide another point of failure.

The difference between a Pentium and a Celeron processor

2008-07-19T08:18:00.000-07:00

Here are the most important similarities and differences between the Pentium 4 and the Celeron chips coming out today:

Core - The Celeron chip is based on a Pentium 4 core.
Cache - Celeron chips have less cache memory than Pentium 4 chips do. A Celeron might have 128 kilobytes of L2 cache, while a Pentium 4 can have four times that. The amount of L2 cache memory can have a big effect on performance.
Clock speed - Intel manufactures the Pentium 4 chips to run at a higher clock speed than Celeron chips. The fastest Pentium 4 might be 60 percent faster than the fastest Celeron.
Bus speed - There are differences in the maximum bus speeds that the processors allow. Pentium 4s tend to be about 30 percent faster than Celerons.

Intel manufactures the Pentium 4 chips to run at a higher clock speed than Celeron chips. The fastest Pentium 4 might be 60 percent faster than the fastest Celeron.

When you sort all this out and compare the two chips side by side, it turns out that a Celeron and a Pentium 4 chip running at the same speed are different beasts. The smaller L2 cache size and slower bus speeds can mean serious performance differences depending on what you want to do with your computer. If all you do is check e-mail and browse the Web, the Celeron is fine, and the price difference can save you a lot of money. If you want the fastest machine you can buy, then you need to go with the Pentium 4 to get the highest clock speeds and the fastest system bus.

Rename a group of files or folders

2008-07-19T08:16:00.000-07:00

To rename a group of files or folders in WinXP, open the explorer folder that contains the files and do the following:

NOTE: Be careful not to include any critical windows system files or folders when applying this technique. Back up with system restore first if you're not sure. Also, it only makes sense to apply it to files of the same type.)

1. Highlight the files and/or folders to be renamed (remember to hold down the CTRL key to select non-adjacent files); or hold CTRL-A to select all the files and folders in a given folder

2. Let the mouse hover over the file that you wish to be the first in the series

3. Hit the F2 key or Right-click and select "Rename"

4. Type in the new name for the batch of files you've selected (don't forget to type in the extension if needed, for example .mp3 or .jpg)

5. Hit the Enter key to change the names. The files will remain highlighted and should have sequential names like "rename (1).txt" and "rename (2).txt". If you're not satisfied, simply hit F2 or select "rename" again and do it over.

Remove Hiberfile in XP to regain hardrive space

2008-07-19T08:12:00.000-07:00

As default Windows creates a file (c:\hiberfil.sys) to save the complete memory if you hibernate. It is the same size as your memory eg. if you have 2GB Ram, windows will create a 2GB file!. If you don't use hibernate you can remove the file by doing the following:

1. Go to Settings / Control Panel / Power Options

2. Click Hibernate and uncheck 'Enable Hibernation'

3. Click Apply and you have gained some Hard Disk Space

"Repair Installation" in Windows XP

2008-07-19T07:55:00.000-07:00

Configure your computer to start from the CD-ROM drive. For more information about how to do this, please refer to your BIOS documentation.

Insert your Windows XP compact disc (CD) into your CD-ROM drive or DVD-ROM drive, and then restart your computer.

When the "Press any key to boot from CD" message is displayed on your screen, press a key to start your computer from the Windows XP CD.

When you see the following message displayed on the Welcome to Setup screen, press ENTER:

To setup Windows XP now, press ENTER.

At this point an option to press R to enter the Recovery Console is displayed. Do not select this option.

On the Windows XP Licensing Agreement screen, press F8 to agree to the license agreement.

Make sure that your current installation of Windows XP is selected in the box, and then press the R key to repair Windows XP.

Follow the instructions on the screen to complete Setup.

Gettin your DVD-ROM drive to work

2008-07-19T07:47:00.000-07:00

Are you running 2 drives?
eg. DVD-Rom + CD-Writer\ROM??

But You can get your CD-Writer\Rom to work properly, but your dvd-rom runs as a standard cd-rom drive and its not picking up DVD's?

Heres The FIX:
Navigate to your device manager located in you system; in your control panel...Once there, click on "ATA/ATAPI controllers" open: "Secondary IDE channel" click the "Advanced Settings" tab: If your DVD-ROM is the master and your CD-Writer\Rom is a slave change the device 0: Transfer Mode to "PI0 Mode" in the drop down menu... or if your CD-Writer\Rom is master and your DVD-ROM is slave (which is really rare) change the device 1:transfer Mode to "PI0 Mode"in the drop down menu... Then restart your computer even if it doesn't ask you to!

Once restarted... test!! and have fun....

Changing Drive Letter in XP

2008-07-19T07:41:00.000-07:00

If you want to change your hard drive letter or your cd-rom drive letter, this is the tip you want.

1. Click the start button

2. Go into Administrative tools (either in the start button or in "All Programs"

3. From Administrative Tools, go into "Computer Management"

4. In "Computer Management", click on "Disk Management" under "Storage" from the left menu

5. You should see a window from the lower right hand corner open (it shows all the hard disk drives and

cd-rom drives)

6. To change...

...hard drive, click on the hard disk with a blue horizonal bar, the box should be shaded; next right click that box that you desire to change the letter then click on "Change Letter Drive and Path"

...cd-rom drive, click on the box that you desire the drive letter; next right click that box that you desire to change the letter then click on "Change Letter Drive and Path"

7. Click the "change..." button

8. From the "assign the following drive letter", select the letter you want to assign to the hard drive or the
cd-rom drive

9. Click ok

10. Click ok

11. (Optional) redo the whole step to reassign other hard drives or cd-rom drives

You have succeeded in changing the hard drive or cd-rom drive letter. Enjoy!

Notes: You can not change the drive letter of your boot or system drive this way. You can not assign drive letters that are already in use. Assign temporary letters as a workaround.

Convert From Fat32 to NTFS in XP

2008-07-19T07:36:00.000-07:00

To convert your drive or partition from fat32 to ntfs, type the following at Start - Run (assuming it's drive C:):

CONVERT C: /FS:NTFS

If you are asked if you want to dismount the drive, you must answer yes.

Alternatively, you can use a utility such as Partition Magic

Free Online Scan

2008-07-19T05:47:00.000-07:00

Scan files downloaded from the internet using various top-of-the-line antivirus products including Nod32, AVG, Kaspersky, BitDefender, F-Secure, and more.....

Click here

Periodic Table v3.6

2008-07-19T03:38:00.000-07:00

The application contains all the elements of the Periodic Table along with images of the elements in their natural state, as well as lots of other information and interactive displays.

The periodic table now comes in two versions. They all contain the same amount of information.

Standard Version
Designed to be used on desktops set to 1024x768 or better. Contains many small images of most of the elements.
Mini Version
This version contains the same smaller images that comes with the standard version, except that it's designed to be used on desktops of 800x600.

Features include:

Detailed information on each element
Details of isotopes and allotropes
Details of important compounds
Details of reactions with water, air, halogens and acids
Images for each element (126 images in total) including valence and crystal stucture diagrams
Glossary of terms
Graphs of important element properties
Biographies for the important scientists and element discoverers
View the states of the elements at any temperature (from 0 - 6000k)
XP style support
Search through all content
Electron shell diagrams of each element
Atomic width diagram
Element names and the majority of the applications buttons are now available in eight different languages. Unfortunately there is just too much text for me to translate (95,000+ words).

Download here

Microsoft Windows Sysinternals Suite

2008-07-19T03:21:00.000-07:00

The Sysinternals web site was created in 1996 by Mark Russinovich and Bryce Cogswell to host their advanced system utilities and technical information. Microsoft acquired Sysinternals in July, 2006. Whether you're an IT Pro or a developer, you'll find Sysinternals utilities to help you manage, troubleshoot and diagnose your Windows systems and applications. If you have a question about a tool or how to use them, please visit the Sysinternals Forum for answers and help from other users and our moderators.

Featured Resources:

File and Disk Utilities
Utilities for viewing and monitoring file and disk access and usage.

Networking Utilities
Networking tools that range from connection monitors to resource security analyzers.

Process Utilities
Utilities for looking under the hood to see what processes are doing and the resources they are consuming.

Security Utilities
Security configuration and management utilities, including rootkit and spyware hunting programs.

System Information
Utilities for looking at system resource usage and configuration.

Miscellaneous Utilities
A collection of diverse utilities that includes a screen saver, presentation aid, and debugging tool.

Download here

Free Sound Recorder 7.0.1

2008-07-19T02:54:00.000-07:00

Free Sound Recorder does exactly as it sounds--it is an easy-to-use software program that lets you record any sounds from your sound card and save the recording directly into MP3, WMA or WAV files. Free Sound Recorder is a perfect audio recorder to record your own voice, music or any other sound by working directly with your sound card. It supports the record input/source from a microphone, streaming audio from the Internet, external input devices (CDs, LP, music cassettes, phone line) as well as other applications like Winamp, Media Player. With built-in advanced audio record engine, the recorder produces high quality recordings.

Version 7.0.1 may include unspecified updates, enhancements, or bug fixes.

Download here

Song Mixer

2008-07-19T02:28:00.000-07:00

Song Mixer is a music manager somewhat similar to iTunes however with different features. With it, you can use any standard USB MP3 player, not just iPods. You can prepare music for burning onto a Mix Disc (although version 1 will not do the actual burning), you can, of course, listen to your music, and even play Name that Tune. You can use music from any location, scattered random cd-r's & dvd-r's, folders on your computer, another computer on your home network, or standard audio cds, Song Mixer can rip and encode to MP3 audio cd tracks as well.

It's Mood Ring allows you to create a random mix of music which falls into a certain range of genres, allowing you to choose more or less songs of particular genres. To affect random mixes you can also: give songs ratings, link neighboring songs together so that if one is chosen, and let Song Mixer know which songs are remixes of other songs. This version is the first release on CNET Download.com.

Download here

WinRar 3.71

2008-07-19T02:25:00.000-07:00

WinRAR is a 32-bit Windows version of RAR Archiver, an archiver and archive manager. RAR files can usually compress content by 8 percent to 15 percent more than ZIP files can. WinRAR's main features include strong general and multimedia compression, the ability to process non-RAR archive formats, ZIP compression and decompression, support for long filenames, programmable self-extracting archives (SFX), repair of damaged archives, authenticity verification, embedded file comments, and encryption. Unicode is supported in archive filenames, allowing non-English filenames to be handled painlessly. You can manipulate the parameters of many archives at once and view a volume sequence as a single archive. WinRAR can convert other archive formats to RAR and search for specified text and files in archives.

Version 3.71 corrects several bugs and improves processing of corrupt RAR archives.

Download here

TeamViewer

2008-07-19T02:18:00.001-07:00

TeamViewer is a simple and fast solution for remote control, desktop sharing and file transfer that works behind any firewall and NAT proxy. To connect to another computer just run TeamViewer on both machines without the need of an installation procedure. With the first start automatic partner IDs are generated on both computers. Enter your partner's ID into TeamViewer and the connection is established immediately. With many thousand users worldwide TeamViewer is a standard tool to give support and assistance to people in remote locations. The software can also be used for presentations, where you can show your own desktop to a partner. TeamViewer also is VNC compatible and offers secure, encrypted data transfer with maximum security.

Instantly take control over a computer anywhere on the Internet, even through firewalls. No installation required, just use it fast and secure.

Download here

Cases: How to Avoid Overheating

2008-07-17T08:17:00.000-07:00

Correct Airflow

In the normal way of things, very little or no attention at all is paid to the choice of a case for housing a computer. However, nowadays processors are heating up ever more, so choosing the right case is critical for avoiding computer overheating.

Nowadays, overheating is not only due to the computer’s processor: the motherboard’s chipset and video card’s video processor are also responsible for heating the air inside the case.

If your computer is having overheating trouble, you surely will be able to solve the problem through this tutorial. The typical symptom an overheating computer is when it locks (freezes up) too much and issues errors of General Protection Failure (“This program has carried out an illegal operation and will shut down”) and the infamous “blue screen of death”. If you remove the case’s cover and, with the computer open, the computer stops being troublesome, the problem is overheating. Note that these symptoms also turn up in other maintenance situations, i. e., they do not necessarily mean that the computer is overheating.

Usually the case comes with its power supply installed. Few people are aware of it, but the power supply plays a basic role in cooling the computer’s innards. To understand this, you must understand how the air circulates in a case. You must have noticed that every power supply has a fan. This fan should always be operating in the exhaust direction, that is, blowing towards the outside, expelling hot air form inside to outside the case.

Look at Figure 1 to get a better picture. As hot air has a natural trend to move upwards, the hot air produced by the computer automatically flows to the upper part of the case. The power supply’s fan then draws out this hot air, thus providing proper computer ventilation. Cool air automatically comes in through the case’s front via a suitable slot placed under the space intended for the hard disk.

Figure 1: How is the airflow inside your computer.

The power supply must have slots on its side in order to let hot air get out of the case and prevent computer overheating. The precise location of such slots will depend on the case size, since depending on the size of the case and power supply the power supply can be located in above, in front or besides the CPU – which is the main heat source inside the PC. With a bit of common sense, it is easy to see where these slots should be located. Looking closer at the computer shown on Figure 1 (see its close up on Figure 2) we can conclude that its power supply is correctly sized for its case. Note that the slots on the power supply are in the proper path for expelling hot air produced by the computer’s processor and other internal components, i. e., the position of the power supply does not hamper exhausting hot air from the processor and the slots are practically in front of the processor in order to allow hot air to flow correctly out of the computer.

Figure 2: Detail of the space between the power supply and the system processor.

Choosing the Correct Case

The choice of a case is more than a mere matter of aesthetics, as it must be able to dissipate the hot air generated inside it. But how can we know that a case is suitable for a given computer?

Take a look on Figures 3 and 4. They show an actual computer having trouble from overheating. To the point, with the case closed, the computer jammed. When we removed the cover, the problem disappeared. Examining carefully the placing of the processor and the size of the power supply unit, the reason for overheating became clear: in the first place, there is hardly any space between the power supply and the processor’s fan, preventing the processor’s hot air from being suitably dispelled. In the second place, we can see that the segment of the supply above the processor has no slots for dissipating the air coming from the processor. Thirdly, the bottom of the power supply has no holes for dissipating the heat generated by other computer internal components (video card, motherboard chipset, hard disk, etc). Although the power supply’s side is slotted – in front of the case’s 5 ¼” bays – these are obviously insufficient to remove the hot air from inside the computer.

Figure 3: The CPU cooler is too close to the power supply!

Figure 4: Check how the power supply prevents the hot air coming from the CPU to be dissipated.

There are several solutions to this problem, but the most suitable and easy way is changing the computer’s case. Upon buying a new case, examine the size of the power supply, checking that the new unit does not covers the processor’s fan, as happens in the above case (even a medium size tower case can be used to avoid covering the processor’s fan by the power supply). Other possible solutions are just changing the power supply unit or even drilling holes in the metal panel of the part of the power supply facing the processor (in the latter case, the power supply should be demounted and the holes drilled with the panel off the supply, in order to avoid bits of metal falling into the supply when drilling, as this could later cause a short circuit when the computer is switched on).

Studying better this story, we found out that the case is an old model, revamped by upgrading a cartridge-type Pentium III processor. This case may have been very good for a cartridge type processor, but it is not good for newer CPUs. Although the motherboard fits perfectly in an old case, this does not mean that the case is suitable for the heat dissipation required by newer components. Therefore, be careful when upgrading to new computers reusing older cases.

Also it is a good habit to organize the cables inside the case using cable holders whenever possible. The computer on Figure 4 is a mess, the cables are preventing the correct airflow inside this computer, helping the overheating situation.

Improving the Case Cooling

If you think the inside of your computer is heating up too much and all is apparently OK regarding the position of the processor and, mainly, of its fan, as we have seen in previous pages, there are some ways to improve the computer’s inner cooling.

The cheapest way is to open holes in the power supply on its lower side, that is, the side facing down when the computer is stood up. You can also make openings in the plating facing the case’s 5 1/4" bays. These openings should only be made if originally there are no holes for expelling hot air on your power supply.

To these holes you must first unplug the computer from the power outlet, remove the power supply from the case and open it, making the holes with the plating separated from the power circuits, to prevent metal falling into the circuits, thus causing a short circuit when the computer is switched on. These holes will let hot air out easier from inside the case, following its natural path, the power supply.

You can also install auxiliary fans inside the case. Such fans are easily found in computer shops (ask for 80 mm auxiliary fan), but you can also save money by using a fan removed from an old power supply (for instance, belonging to a scrapped computer). If you intend to cannibalise a fan, be careful. Older power supplies, used in desktop type cases (from the XT and 286 age) use 110/220 V fans that cannot be reused. You must use 12 V fans, utilized in the majority of power supplies applied in mini tower type cases.

The auxiliary fan can be installed in two places in the case. The most usual place is under the hard disk drives bays (see Figures 5 e 6), where the system intakes cool air. Be very careful when seating the fan in this place, as its position in the ventilation flow must be drawing cool air from outside to inside the computer. Every fan bears, on one of its sides, an arrow showing the airflow direction. This arrow should, therefore, point towards the inside of the computer.

Figure 5: Place for installing an auxiliary fan inside your case.

Figure 6: Another angle from this place.

The second position is not found in all cases: it lies in the space between the power supply and peripheral cards, on the back of the case. In this case, the fan should be installed in the exhaust direction, i. e., blowing hot air from inside to outside the computer. The fan’s arrow must therefore point out the computer.

Figure 7: Another place for installing an auxiliary fan. Not all cases have this spot.

You must get the direction of the fans’ air flow right, as if you get it wrong the computer may heat up more, definitely not the intended outcome. The rule is very simple: fans at the computer’s rear should be fitted in the exhaust direction (inside to outside), while fans in the computer’s front should be fitted in the cooling direction (outside to inside).

Newer fans sold at outlets have three wires and a plug for connecting to the motherboard via a connector called "Chassis Fan", "Aux Fan" or something like this. On the other hand, older fans have two wires and should be connected directly to the power supply via one of the plugs for 5 1/4" units. If you intend to use a cannibalised fan, note that its black wire should be connected to the supply’s black wire, but its red wire should be connected to the supply’s yellow wire, its 12 V output, and not to its red wire, as could be assumed (the red wire is its 5 V lead). The extra wire on newer fans is intended to measure the rotating speed and, according, inform the motherboard whether the fan is working properly or not.

Other Places For Auxiliary Fans

If you while reading our tutorial wanted to install an auxiliary fan in your case but didn't find any place for its installation, that shouldn’t be a problem. If the heating inside your case is really high, you can simply adapt any place for the installation of an auxiliary fan.

But where exactly can we install an auxiliary fan? That will greatly depend on which area inside the case is overheating. From our experience, we have seen that the upper part of the case tends to heat more for several reasons. First, and obviously, it is because hot air goes up. Second, it is in that area that we have, in ATX cases, the processor and its fan. And third, in that area we also have the 5 1/4" bays and those who have CD recorder or DVD unit will discover great heating of that area, since recorders produce a lot of heat while working.

Some cases have ventilation holes on their sides. Those holes are a perfect place for the installation of an auxiliary fan, especially at the upper part, where the PC heats more. As there aren’t enough holes, nor holes for the fixation of the fan, you should make them with a drill (obviously after removing the metal cover of case from your PC). In such case, the fan should be installed following the direction of the exhaustion. You should be careful to install the fan in a place where there is enough space for it, because it will “hang” inside the case and should not “hit” any internal component. That is, it should stay between the power supply and the 5 1/4" bays.

Another place that can be used for the installation of an auxiliary fan is the top 5 1/4" bay. Since mini-tower cases have 3 bays, and we usually only use one, we may easily make an adaptation and install a fan in that place, exhausting the hot air from the computer. That adaptation involves cutting and drilling hole on the plastic covers of the 5 1/4" bays. Indeed, some manufacturers are already selling fans ready to be fit into those bays.

In other words, you can install an auxiliary fan where you think the computer is heating too much, making the necessary adaptations in your case. Just one more thing to what we have been talking about the direction of the air: the auxiliary fans installed in the upper part of the case should be installed following the direction of the exhaustion (air flowing from inside the computer to outside), while auxiliary fans installed in the lower part of the case should follow the direction of the ventilation (air flowing from outside to inside). That will make the air flow inside the case follow its proper path.

Another detail that we have not mentioned is that there are smaller fans and some cases have space for the installation of that fan type, as it can be seen on Figure 8, where the case has space for the installation of a 50-mm auxiliary fan (the standard size of the auxiliary fans we have been talking about until now is 80 mm). Many times those places go unnoticed, due to their reduced size. As the space is located at the back of the case, the fan should be installed following the exhaustion direction, forcing the hot air inside the case to leave it.

Figure 8: Place for the installation of a 50-mm auxiliary fan.

Transform a CD-rom drive into a car CD player

2008-07-17T08:11:00.000-07:00

To be used as CD player, the CD-ROM drive doesn't need to be connected to the computer. This way, it is possible to easily transform a CD-ROM drive into a Car CD player. Sounds crazy? Not so. With this tutorial you will be able to have a CD player in your car without spending almost anything.

The CD-ROM drive to be use may be of any type, from the first models ("1x") until the most modern ones ("60x"). The only prerequisite is that the drive needs to have is an earphone plug and volume control. And practically all CD-ROM drives have that.

There are two great advantages in transforming a CD-ROM drive into a Car CD player. First, who will want to break your car window to take CD-ROM drive? And, secondly, since any type of CD-ROM drive can be used, you may take an old drive that is just dusting away in your house (for instance, a 2x drive from an old 386 computer), which brings the cost down to almost nothing.

To install a CD-ROM drive in the car, you will need a female power plug, to be used to fit into CD-ROM drive power plug (that plug can be cut from an old power supply) and a voltage regulating integrated circuit called 7805, that may be easily found at electronic parts stores. You will also have to buy a heat dissipator for the 7805 (sold at the same store).

The car battery is a 12 V one, but the CD-ROM drive needs two voltages to work: 12 V and 5 V. The 7805 circuit is able to convert a 12 V voltage into 5 V (its pin 1 is for the input, its pin 2 is the grounding, and its pin 3 is the 5 V exit). Figure 1 shows the plan for the connection. The grounding pin should be connected to the wires of the plug grounding and the negative pole of the car battery, what is done by simply connecting that pin to the metallic body of the car.

Figure 1: CD-ROM adaptor schematics.

All you have to do is to make the connections shown in the above schematics (don't forget to isolate all connections with insulating tape) and you are set: you will have a CD-ROM drive working as CD player in your car.

The audio output will be made using the earphone plug. To listen to a CD, you will have to use earphones. To have the sound come through the speakers of the car, you will have to buy an amplifier with RCA inputs and a stereo P2 (mini jack) x stereo RCA cable (the same type of cable used to connect Discman units to amplifiers). The stereo P2 plug (also known as mini jack), which is the one used for the earphones, should be fit at the earphone output of the CD-ROM drive, while the RCA plugs should be fit at the input of the amplifier. The volume control will be made using the volume control in the CD-ROM drive.

A last warning: in most CD-ROM drives, the reproduction button (play) and the advance button (skip) are on the same key. In other words, to skip a track, all you have to do is to press the play button.

Things you should know about building a PC from scratch

2008-06-26T06:21:00.000-07:00

Select the mobo carefully

The motherboard is the most important component you select when building a PC from scratch. Not only does your motherboard choice determine the number and type of ports (parallel, serial, USB, memory card, etc.) a new system possesses, but it also dictates which processor powers the box, the memory (type and speed) that’s used, the number and type of disks (IDE, SATA, etc.) supported, and the resulting PC case style (micro, Shuttle, mid-tower, 1U server, etc.), as the motherboard’s form factor (ATX, mini-ITX, etc.) typically determines the case that must be used.
Pay particular attention to a motherboard’s CPU socket type when reviewing your processor options. The CPU socket type typically dictates the CPU manufacturer (Intel vs. AMD) as well as the processor family (Pentium 4, Athlon, Celeron, Sempron, etc.). If you become confused as to which socket is designed for which CPU, Wikipedia maintains a handy listing.
It’s also a good idea to review the motherboard’s chipset and video port specifications. Chipset type determines maximum RAM configuration (among other elements), while most every contemporary board supports older PCI technology. Newer boards, however, favor PCI-Express slots over AGP for improved video performance.

Review CPU options

While your motherboard choice often determines the processor (AMD Athlon 64-bit and Intel Core Duo are but two examples), you still have a decision to make. That is, how fast should your processor be?
Remember that a CPU boasting additional processor cycles will provide improved performance during its service life, and the service life may well be extended proportionate to its increase in speed over base models. In other words, a Pentium 4 3.06 GHz chip is more likely to meet minimum system requirements longer than the same model CPU with a 2.26 GHz clock.

Don’t skimp on the PC case

Avoid the temptation to purchase the cheapest beige box. The case that houses the system does more than just hold the PC’s components. Cases also determine the system’s footprint, as well as the type and number of data ports easily accessed from the machine’s front.

Power up

Never underestimate the importance of a good power supply. Problematic power supplies can be a nightmare to diagnose. Ensure that you purchase a quality unit that generates sufficient power for your system’s configuration.

Check the RAM

You can never have enough RAM, but you can certainly purchase it improperly. For example, if you need 2 GB of RAM, don’t plan on plugging four 512 MB sticks into most boards. Many motherboards now feature only a pair of RAM slots, so be sure to purchase the most concentrated RAM modules you can.
Also, purchase the correct memory. It’s easy to confuse different types. Confirm that you’ve received the proper RAM and aren’t the recipient of 333 MHz DDR memory when you paid for a 400 MHz DDR stick, as almost happened to me recently. (Fortunately, I caught the error and corrected a well-intentioned clerk prior to completing the purchase.)

Choose the right disk format

Your motherboard selection will provide you with several disk options. In addition to the requisite CD/DVD drive, you’ll likely have your choice of IDE, SATA, or even SCSI hard disks. If your system will process large amounts of data often, it’s worth supplying the new system with a SATA or SCSI drive.
But if the system is to be used for nonintensive applications (likely the case for the majority of corporate systems), cheaper and potentially-recyclable IDE hard disks are readily available and will adequately meet your needs. Don’t just assume you need the latest and greatest hardware. Significant savings can be had by reusing an existing 5400 RPM 20 GB IDE disk as opposed to purchasing a new 7,200 RPM 300 GB SATA drive.

Consider video requirements

There used to be little call for potent video cards in most corporate environments. Other than graphic artists, CAD designers, professional photographers, and video production houses, few people other than gamers really required video cards packing more than even 64 MB of video RAM.
But that’s all changing. The use of rich media is growing exponentially across all professions. The trend is sure to stress a vast number of video cards currently in use, and Windows Vista (with its graphically intensive Glass interface) will push many organizations to using video cards with 256 MB or more RAM.
Video adapter type is another consideration when building a barebones system. PCI- and AGP-based adapters long met most organization’s needs. But PCI-Express, with higher speeds resulting from serial interconnects versus the old-style bus, is overtaking AGP
Be sure to keep your organization’s requirements, and the system’s intended use, in mind when specifying the new PC’s video parameters. In many cases, a simple embedded video adapter will meet your needs. In others, a separate AGP or PCI-E slot and video adapter with 256 MB nonshared video RAM may be required to accommodate graphically intensive tasks. (which itself overtook PCI).

Secure everything

More than a few systems have been hastily built and pressed into service. It’s easy to overlook fundamentals, especially when projects stack up, but always take the extra time to secure all the components inside a PC.
Ensure all power supply and data cables are directed away from cooling fans, including fans used to cool the CPU, video card, and the case itself. PCs have lots of moving parts, so prevent cables from shifting position by connecting them to the case’s frame (or even other cables) using zip ties.
Also take time to secure all drives and disks in their bays. Don’t rely upon a single screw to hold a hard disk or CD/DVD drive in place; use at least two screws (one to each side) and preferably four (two to a side).

Buy a burner

If 40 is the new 30, a CD/DVD burner is the new floppy. Many PCs no longer even include a floppy disk. Assuming a little extra cost now (for a CD or DVD writing drive) will save you time and trouble in the future.
Sure, everyone believes they’ll be able to e-mail or FTP larger files to the appropriate vendor, supplier, or customer, but I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve needed to transfer large files but couldn’t access FTP shares due to security or firewall issues and couldn’t e-mail the files due to Exchange attachment restrictions.
Add a burner to your barebones PC and you’ll also have a secondary method of creating backups, too. The benefits simply outweigh the costs.

Cool is good; heat is bad

PC cases commonly don’t include five-dollar case fans. Buy one and install it. Heat’s a PC’s worst enemy.
Purchase a quality CPU fan, too. Both cheap and expensive models (particularly any that add neon glow) should be avoided. Instead, go with tried-and-true manufacturers that don’t make CPU cooling complicated. It’s a simple problem with a simple solution.
Also, don’t store the system’s documentation inside the PC. I recently replaced a failed hard disk in a physician’s computer that likely died an early death because the previous administrator placed a plastic bag containing the PC’s documentation inside the case. It’s a practice I see occasionally. Although it's a good idea in concept (keeping a system’s documentation, license, and install CD with the unit), the material obstructs airflow. In this case, it blocked numerous exhaust ports and likely contributed to the hard drive’s premature failure.

What's dual-channel?

2008-06-22T05:59:00.001-07:00

Memory runs along a 64-bit pipeline. Dual channel requires matching sizes, speeds, and latencies of RAM to be installed (2x1GB sticks, for example) in certain slots to work.
This effectively doubles the memory bandwidth to 128-bit.
You can mix memory sizes as long as each channel is matched.
If you mix RAM of different speeds, the faster RAM will underclock to match the slower RAM.

Dual-channel can provide up to a 5% boost. That's not much, but it's free and better than nothing. Keep in mind that adding a third stick of memory of a decent size will probably still give you a boost even though you are now running in single channel.

Can I use DDR/3 in a DDR2 motherboard and vice versa?

2008-06-22T05:57:00.000-07:00

No you can't because the memory fits in using a notch. Even if you force it in, the memory has a different number of pins, and thus will fry your computer on startup.

Is higher or lower CAS/latency better?

2008-06-22T05:51:00.000-07:00

Lower is generally better (4-4-4-12 vs 5-5-5-18)
Tighter latency means that it takes a lower amount of ns (nanoseconds, the measure of speed for RAM) to transfer data. However the frequency/transfer rate (DDR2-1066 v DDR2-800) can make up for a higher latency, which is what you tend to get as RAM gets faster and faster (DDR-400 was 3-3-3-8 standard, DDR-533 was CAS 4-4-4-12 standard, DDR2-800 is 5-5-5-18 standard)

How to match RAM speed with Intel CPU FSB

2008-06-22T05:48:00.000-07:00

There are currently 3 types of RAM still in use.

DDR: Double Data Rate:

The memory chips and the memory bus run at one speed.

DDR2: Double Data Rate 2:

The memory chips run at one speed, the memory bus runs at twice that speed, and the bus can transfer two pieces of data at once.

DDR3: Double Data Rate 3:

The difference is that now the bus can transfer 4 pieces of data at once.

The rated "speed" of RAM is how many million transfers it can perform per second.
DDR2-800 can do 800 million transfers a second at peak bandwidth usage.

Meanwhile, Intel likes to confuse you, so the FSB of a CPU is actually 4x what the actually speed is.

Let's take an E8400 Wolfdale dual-core, shall we? It has:
a multiplier of 9x
a FSB of 1333mhz
a speed of 3ghz.

Now, 1333x9 is 12ghz, which is definitely not the speed of your CPU (sorry)
To get the actually speed of the chip, divide the FSB by four.
1333mhz/4 = 333mhz.

Now, let's try again:
9x333=3.0ghz (2997mhz if you're picky)

So you need to use DDR2-667 RAM with this CPU at least. (667/2 = 333)

Installed 4GB of RAM but windows only sees 3-3.5GB!

2008-06-22T04:50:00.000-07:00

This is an inherent limitation of a 32-bit OS. Windows can only see 4GB, and it needs "physical address space" for things like video card RAM.
The only solution is to upgrade to an x64 (64bit) operating system.
The recommended 64bit OS is Vista because of better support and compatibility.

Move the cursor without a mouse

2008-06-22T01:03:00.000-07:00

If you would like to try out using your mouse with only your keyboard, Windows makes this option available to you. The utility is called MouseKeys. MouseKeys uses your numeric keypad to control the mouse cursor. This can be a handy feature if you are needing better accuracy while designing graphics. MouseKeys allows you to move the cursor pixel by pixel across the screen. Here is how to activate the MouseKeys feature:

Go to Start>> Control Panel>> Accessibility Options

Click the Mouse tab

Place a checkmark in the box titled: Use MouseKeys

Click the settings button to adjust the pointer speed

Click OK

Creating a shutdown/reboot icon

2008-06-22T00:58:00.000-07:00

WindowsXP has a program called SHUTDOWN.EXE which allows you to easily create icons to shutdown or restart your computer.

To create a shutdown shortcut on the desktop:

Right click on an open area of the desktop

Select New / Shortcut

Select New / Shortcut

Press the Next button

For the name, enter in anything you like. I just use shutdown. Click the Finish button.

For a reboot, enter "shutdown -r -t 00"

Shutdown [{-l|-s|-r|-a}] [-f] [-m [\ComputerName]] [-t xx] [-c "message"] [-d[u][p]:xx:yy]

Parameters:

-l - Logs off the current user, this is also the defualt. -m ComputerName takes precedence.
-s - Shuts down the local computer.
-r - Reboots after shutdown.
-a - Aborts shutdown. Ignores other parameters, except -l and ComputerName. You can only use -a during the time-out period.
-f - Forces running applications to close.
-m [\ComputerName] - Specifies the computer that you want to shut down.
-t xx - Sets the timer for system shutdown in xx seconds. The default is 20 seconds.
-c "message" - Specifies a message to be displayed in the Message area of the System Shutdown window. You can use a maximum of 127 characters. You must enclose the message in quotation marks.

Display message at startup

2008-06-22T00:46:00.000-07:00

If you would like to display any message in a popup window when Windows is started, here's how:

Go to Start> Run, then type in: regedit

Hit [Enter] on your keyboard

Follow this path: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogo

Modify the key LegalNoticeCaption with your text of choice

Modify the key LegalNoticeText with your text of choice

Restart Windows for this to take affect

Speed up Windows XP

2008-06-22T00:41:00.000-07:00

Speed Up Windows XP by Keeping the Operating System in Memory

One thing you can do to speed up Windows XP is to make sure that key operating system functions stay in memory. Memory (also called "RAM" for Random Access Memory) is much faster than the hard disk. Perform the following steps to boost your XP computer's performance:

Click the Start button. Click the Run command and type regedit in the Open text box. Click OK. As always, be very careful when editing the Registry.

In the Registry Editor, go to the following registry key:
HKEY LOCAL MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management

Right click the DisablePagingExecutive entry in the right pane of the Registry editor and click Modify.

In the Edit DWORD Value dialog box, type the number "1" (without the quotes) in the Value data field. Click OK.

Close the Registry Editor and restart the computer.

Enable/Disable Error Reporting in Windows XP

2008-06-22T00:38:00.000-07:00

In an effort to make Windows XP a better and more stable operating system, Microsoft has included Error Reporting in the latest release. Whenever an application has to close because of an error, it asks that a report be sent to Microsoft for study and evaluation. Sending the report is optional, but users can benefit from the error log that is generated if they wish to study it or print a hard copy. If you find error reporting objectionable and want it disabled, here's how:

By default, WindowsXP will request to report application errors to Microsoft.

To turn this off:

Right click on the My Computer icon on the desktop

Select Properties / Advanced

Click on the Error Reporting tab

Check Disable error reporting

Optimize system startup

2008-06-21T23:44:00.000-07:00

OS: Windows XP

When people write programs, most of them design their product to automatically launch at the systems startup. Is it really necessary for these programs to be running? Only key programs such as anti-virus and firewall programs need to be running at system startup. The other programs should be re-configured to start only when needed.

Having a lot of programs running at once is very taxing to your system resources and if enough of them are running can cause errors in your operating system, usually memory type errors. Another noticeable problem is a slowing in your boot process. Do you have a computer that is taking a couple of minutes to boot up?

To stop these programs from running at startup, locate the program and re-configure it to NOT run at startup. This is usually found in the programs Properties. Or alternately, you can use Microsoft's System Configuration Utility to accomplish this.

Here's how:

Go to Start>> Run. Type in: msconfig [Enter] or Click OK.

Click the Startup tab.

Uncheck any program listed here to stop it from running.

Exit the Configuration Utility and reboot your system.

Note: Make sure that you do not disable your anti-virus or firewall software.

Depending on how many you had to uncheck, you could notice much better performance from your operating system.

Safely remove hardware icon is missing

2008-06-21T23:18:00.000-07:00

I have my USB flash drive plugged in to my Windows XP system. Normally, when I go to unplug this device, I click on the little icon located in my notification area (lower right corner). However, I have just noticed that the icon is missing and am now afraid to unplug my device. I have been told that you could lose the data on that drive by just unplugging it. How can I restore the icon to my task bar?

Method 1:
Unhide the icon:

Right click your notification area (next to the clock)

Select Properties

Uncheck the entry titled: Hide inactive icons

Click OK

Method 2:
Invoke the Safely Remove Hardware window:

Go to Start>> Run. Type in:

RUNDLL32 SHELL32.DLL,Control_RunDLL hotplug.dll

(you may want to copy and paste the above command in to the run text box for accuracy sake)

Press Enter.

Double click the Entry in the body of the windows to view all installed USB devices.

Select the one that you would like to Stop.

Unplug the stopped device

Method 3:
Reboot to restore Safely Remove Hardware icon:

It has been reported that a simple reboot will restore the subject icon to the notification area

Method 4:
Make sure Safely Remove Hardware is set to "always show":

Go to Start>> Control Panel

Select Taskbar and Start Menu

Scroll the list to find the "Safely Remove Hardware" entry

Be sure that it is set to "Always show" or "Always hide" is OK. If it is set to "Always hide", click the "Always hide" entry and select one of the other two listed options.

Click OK and exit all open windows

USB flash drive won't work on one pc but works fine on another

2008-06-21T23:07:00.000-07:00

Method 1:

Go to Start>> Right click My Computer>> Manage>> Disk Management

Check to ensure that there is a drive letter assigned to the drive. If there is not, right click the drive and select "Change". Then, see if you can assign a drive letter to this drive.

Method 2:

If the device is listed in Disk Management and has an assigned drive letter, you can try right clicking the device again and this time select "Explorer". Windows Explorer should now be invoked and should display the device and any content within.

Method 3:

Go to Start>> Right click My Computer>> Manage>> Device Manager

Expand the USB Controller section

Right click and Uninstall all of the listed USB devices

Reboot the system

Method 4:

Try connecting the device directly to the USB port and not through a USB hub to see if that makes a difference.

Method 5:

Remove any USB extension cable and try plugging in the USB device directly to the USB port. Possibly, try a different cable.

Method 6:

If the USB device does not have an auxiliary power supply, try connecting it to the system before the boot process and after then after the boot process.

Method 7:

If the USB device has its own auxiliary power supply, try using it with its power on before the boot process and then off during the boot process. Try it on and off after the boot process.

Method 8:

If the problem device is an external HDD, try using the manufactures diagnostic utility (if available) to see if the device is functioning correctly.

Method 9:

If your problem USB device is connected to a PCI card, try changing it from one slot to another.

Method 10:

Try applying an update (if available) of the problem USB device from the manufactures web site. Also, check to see if there has been issues with this device. There may be a chipset driver update or BIOS update available for your Motherboard that could solve the issue.

Monitor Troubleshooting

2008-06-21T22:10:00.000-07:00

Monitor is blank after restarting system:

Check to be sure that the Monitor has power and that the light is on.

Disconnect all devices except for the mouse, keyboard and monitor. Reboot your computer to see if the issue is resolved. If it is, then it is one of the devices that you have disconnected that is causing the problem. try connecting them one at a time and rebooting each time until the original problem occurs. Once identified, try reinstalling the device and updating the driver to resolve the issue.

Try connecting the monitor to a different PC using the problem monitor's power cable. If it still doesn't work, try the known good monitors power cable.

Try unplugging the monitors power cable, then wait about 20 or 30 seconds and plug it back in.

If none of the above troubleshooting steps does not solve the issue, then it is likely that the monitor is bad.

After connecting a monitor, the picture looks bad:

Start the system in Safe Mode by rebooting the system and pressing the F8 key once per second while it is rebooting. Once you see the Windows Startup menu, select Safe Mode from the listed options. press Enter.

Go to Start>> Right click My Computer>> Properties>> Hardware tab>> Device Manager button.

Click the plus (+) symbol next to the Monitors entry to expand it.

Once expanded, right click on the installed monitor(s) and select Uninstall.

Exit the Device Manager and restart your system.

Windows will reinstall your hardware automatically.

The monitor has started making a strange noise:

It is usually a glass display type monitor that will create some unusual noise. Such noise could be:

A high pitched tone or high pitched squealing sound:
Usually, these sounds will be of such a high frequency that they are our of the human ears range. But it is possible for these frequencies to radiate off of internal components making the sound audible. Most of the time, moving or adjusting the height of the monitor cures this problem. Also, try simply turning the monitor off and then back on. If the sound continues or worsens, then either have a qualified technician take a look at your monitor or replace the monitor.

Monitor is making a clicking sound:
This type of noise is usually caused by the monitors relays opening and closing. You could hear this type of sound when the computer starts up or when you are playing a game and a display setting is changed. This sound is considered normal.

Monitors display settings are not correct:

This problem usually occurs when a new monitor is installed. It can happen if the automatic detection installs the wrong driver for your hardware resulting in incorrect display settings for your application.

You can try reinstalling the monitor by using the above troubleshooting step; "After connecting a monitor, the picture looks bad". It is possible that Windows will find the correct drivers this time.

Or, visit the manufactures web site and manually install the correct driver for your hardware and operating system.

Display is rotated:

This is usually caused from a game that has changed the Rotation setting within the Graphics Controller. To change this back:

Go to Start>> Control Panel>> Intel Extreme Graphics Applet>> Rotation tab.

Uncheck the Enable Rotation check box.

Click Apply, then OK.

Exit Control Panel.

Note: The above steps may vary depending on the graphics card you have installed. You are looking for the Graphics Controller properties window to change the Rotation setting.

An alternate method of finding your Rotation setting is:

Right click an empty area of your desktop.

Select Properties.

Click the Settings tab.

Select the Advanced button.

Click the Graphics card tab.

Select the Graphics Properties button.

Click the Rotation tab.

Uncheck the Enable Rotation checkbox.

Select Apply and exit all windows.

Keyboard shortcut for "right click"

2008-06-21T22:04:00.000-07:00

Two ways to do this:

Hold down the SHIFT key and press F10.

Most newer keyboards have a key specifically for this purpose. It is located between the right Windows key and the CTRL key.

CD/DVD quit reading disks

2008-06-21T21:57:00.000-07:00

All of the sudden, my drive no longer reads CDs or DVDs. I've tried reinstalling the driver but that didn't work. Is there anything else I can do?

Try this:

Go to Start>> Right click My Computer>> Properties>> Hardware tab>> Device Manager>> DVD / CD-ROM Drives

Right click on the drive and select Uninstall from the resulting menu.

Restart your computer.

On restart, Windows will reinstall the device.

Repair a damaged hardisk using CHKDSK

2008-06-21T20:36:00.000-07:00

Operating System: Windows 2000/XP

Over time, your hard drive could develop errors for a variety of reasons. The most common reasons are:

Improper Shutdowns

Power Outages

Power Surges

Age of Drive

Warning: Depending on the extent of the damage to your hard drive, this test can cause the hard drive to actually fail. So, prior to running this test, be sure to backup all data.

Start Repair Method:

Insert your Windows XP/2000 installation CD and restart your computer to launch the CD. If you receive a prompt asking what boot method you would like to use. Select the option that allows you to boot from the installation CD.

The next prompt will ask what you would like to do? Select the letter "R" to enter the Windows Recovery Console.

When asked what partition you would like to boot to, select the partition that has your Windows operating system installed on it. You may be asked for an administrator password at this point. If you use one, then enter it now. If not, simply press enter to continue.

A command prompt should now appear. Type in the following command and then press enter on your keyboard: chkdsk /p

Your system will begin testing for errors on your drive. If you receive a message that states; "One or more errors detected on the volume", then it is possible to use CHKDSK to repair these errors. If no errors were found, CHKDSK will not be able to repair your drive.

If one or more errors were found, type in the following command at the command prompt and then press enter on your keyboard: chkdsk /r

Once you press enter, the CHKDSK utility will begin checking every sector on your hard drive for errors and automatically repair them. This test could take some time depending on the size of your hard drive.

Once your system stops scanning and returns you to the command prompt, type the following command again, then press enter: chkdsk /p

If after the scan completes and it has found no errors, this means that you have successfully repaired your drive. If errors are again reported, this means that the CHKDSK utility was unable to repair these errors and it could also indicate that the drive is on its last leg.

Exit the Recovery Console and remove your Windows XP/2000 installation CD. Be sure to (if you haven't already) backup all data on your drive.